The 2024 wine harvest in France is shaping up to be one of the most challenging in recent memory, with a significant drop in production anticipated across nearly all of the country’s renowned wine-producing regions. Early estimates from the Ministry of Agriculture suggest that this year’s wine output could be between 40 and 43 million hectoliters, representing a reduction of 10% to 16% compared to 2023. This decrease is particularly stark when viewed against the average production figures from 2019 to 2023, which shows a decline of 3% to 10%.
The decrease in production is largely the result of a combination of adverse weather conditions and widespread vine diseases, which have struck vineyards from Bordeaux to Burgundy. The 2024 growing season began with a wet spring, creating ideal conditions for the spread of mildew, a fungal disease that has wreaked havoc on grapevines nationwide. This disease has not only reduced the quantity of grapes but has also raised concerns about the quality of the harvest, especially in some of France’s most prestigious wine regions.
The challenges did not stop with mildew. Winemakers have also had to contend with episodes of frost and hail, which have caused significant damage to the vines. These extreme weather events have led to issues such as coulure (poor fruit set) and millerandage (uneven berry sizes), both of which have further reduced the potential yield for the 2024 harvest. These problems are particularly concerning in regions where the cool and damp conditions during the flowering period have compounded the difficulties.
Despite these grim prospects, there is still some hope that the final outcome of the harvest could be better than expected. The Ministry of Agriculture has noted that these early estimates are provisional and could change depending on the weather in the coming weeks. With the harvest just beginning in some areas and continuing into early autumn, there is cautious optimism that well-hydrated soils might help offset some of the expected production losses.
Adding to the woes of French winemakers is a troubling decline in demand, particularly for red wine. France, which had reclaimed its position as the world’s leading wine producer with a 48 million hectoliter output in 2023, is now facing a significant drop in sales. Over the past three years, red wine sales have fallen by 15% in the retail sector, with white and rosé wines also experiencing declines of 3% to 5%. This downturn in demand is especially painful for producers in regions such as the southwest, Occitania, and the Rhône Valley, where economic pressures have intensified as a result.
In an effort to address the oversupply and declining revenues, the Bordeaux region has initiated a vine-pulling program. This program offers financial compensation to growers who remove their vines, in a bid to balance supply with the reduced demand. However, the expansion of this program to a national level remains uncertain, pending approval from the European Commission.
The combination of adverse weather, vine diseases, and declining market demand presents a daunting challenge for the French wine industry in 2024. As the harvest progresses, the final figures will reveal the full extent of these challenges. However, it is already clear that this year’s vintage will be marked by lower volumes and significant economic strain on producers.
The resilience of the French wine industry will be severely tested in the coming months. With production levels at risk and market demand in flux, the future of French viticulture may depend on the industry’s ability to adapt to an evolving climate and shifting consumer preferences. The outcome of this year’s harvest could have lasting implications, not only for the wine economy but also for the cultural and agricultural heritage that has long been synonymous with France.
