Two weeks after Hurricane Helene ravaged his brewery, Jonathan Chassner took a moment on his back porch in Asheville, North Carolina, sipping warm coffee and contemplating the challenges ahead. Though he had found a lead on a hot shower, his family remained without running water—neither potable nor flushable—at their home.
Despite these hardships, Chassner’s thoughts returned to his business, Zillicoah Beer Company, which he founded in 2017 with his brother, Jeremy, and partner Jonathan Parks. Situated on the banks of the French Broad River, the brewery was heavily damaged during the storm. Chassner recalled that, when the hurricane struck, his tanks held 465 gallons each of an applewood-smoked helles and a vibrant kellerpils. On September 26, those beers merged with the floodwaters that devastated the brewery’s infrastructure.
The catastrophic impact of Hurricane Helene is becoming clearer as the days pass. Communication was initially disrupted, and news spread slowly among neighbors. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) inspectors are currently assessing the damage. Out of approximately 55 breweries in the greater Asheville area, four or five are expected to be declared total losses.
New Origin Brewing, located seven miles southeast of Zillicoah, was obliterated when a Norfolk Southern railcar was swept away by the floodwaters. Nearby, Brewery Cursus Keme was reduced to debris. New Origin owner Dan Juhnke reported that his brewery awaits guidance from the municipal planning department regarding rebuilding on the floodplain. Even the East Coast campus of New Belgium Brewing remains closed, unable to fulfill orders for several weeks.
Asheville, a city of roughly 100,000, is known for its vibrant brewing scene and has been dubbed “Beer City U.S.A.” due to its multiple accolades in an annual poll by renowned brewer Charlie Papazian. The area’s sense of community and commitment among brewers attracted Juhnke to the city five years ago.
Asheville’s oldest brewery, Highland Brewing, remains structurally sound but lacked running water for over two weeks. CEO Leah Wong Ashburn reflected on how the storm transformed her understanding of water’s role in the brewing process. Although her husband conducted studies on the watershed, neither could foresee the devastation brought by the hurricane, which turned local rivers into destructive forces.
“This will change the face of the city,” Ashburn remarked, emphasizing the storm’s far-reaching implications for Asheville’s economy. Founded in 1994, Highland is part of a thriving brewery scene that has attracted national brands like New Belgium and Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. These breweries collectively contributed nearly $1 billion to the local economy in 2019, primarily through beer-related tourism.
Tourism is vital for Highland, which features a taproom and event spaces. Despite the lack of brewing water, the brewery kept some of its 105 employees on payroll by providing meals and supporting local nonprofits. One such organization, Flush AVL, formed to distribute non-potable water to residents, has delivered over 500 water totes.
As of mid-October, Highland has managed to pivot by using water transported from a private source, allowing them to resume some operations. However, sales during October, typically the busiest month for tourism, have dropped to half their usual levels.
In the wake of the disaster, the brewing community has rallied to support those hardest hit. GoFundMe campaigns have been launched to assist Zillicoah and New Origin in rebuilding efforts, and local breweries have organized fundraisers for their neighbors. The North Carolina Craft Brewers Guild introduced the Pouring for Neighbors initiative, encouraging breweries nationwide to donate proceeds from designated beers to relief efforts.
Despite the extensive damage to Zillicoah, the brewery’s spirit endures. Asheville’s DSSOLVR brewery initiated a collaborative IPA called Higher Calling, with proceeds benefiting the North Carolina Craft Brewers Foundation. Burial Beer, another local brewery, opened its doors to offer support to those in need.
Doug and Jess Reiser, co-founders of Burial, drew parallels between Hurricane Helene and their experiences during Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans. They recognized the pivotal role breweries, artists, and small businesses play in recovery.
Chassner, like many in the community, remains resolute about the future of Zillicoah. He emphasized that the essence of the brewery transcends physical structures. “The minds and hearts and souls that created this place known as Beer City U.S.A. are still here,” he stated. “You can’t kill the soul of that.”
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