Alsace, France — The rising demand for Pinot Noir grapes in Alsace is causing a stir among local winemakers, as producers from Burgundy and Jura are offering inflated prices that are making it increasingly difficult for Alsace’s own growers to compete.
Thomas Larmoyer, a young and prominent winemaker in Alsace, expressed frustration over this new trend, claiming that Burgundy and Jura producers are driving up the cost of Pinot Noir grapes to unsustainable levels. Larmoyer, who runs Soil Therapy in Soultzmatt, a winery known for its terroir-driven wines made from historic vineyards, also purchases grapes in addition to sourcing from his own vineyards.
“I won’t try again to buy Pinot Noir in Alsace due to the price speculation,” said Larmoyer. “This trend of Burgundy producers going beyond their own region to purchase grapes at exorbitant prices is pushing local growers out of the market.”
Larmoyer pointed to several well-known Burgundy and Jura producers who are increasingly turning to Alsace for Pinot Noir. These producers, including Jean-François Ganevant of Jura and Burgundy’s Théo Dancer and Tino Kuban, have set up négociant businesses that allow them to purchase grapes from regions outside of their own. By using the Vin de France designation, a flexible appellation system, these producers can craft wines from a variety of regions, including Alsace, where Pinot Noir is gaining prominence.
For example, Ganevant, a leading figure in Jura, sources Pinot Noir from Alsace to produce wines under his négociant label. Meanwhile, Burgundy’s Dancer and Kuban have established reputations for making trendy, low-intervention wines, which are partly made from grapes bought outside of Burgundy, taking advantage of their region’s prestigious image.
The influx of Burgundy and Jura producers seeking grapes from Alsace has sparked concerns over market dynamics, with tensions rising between rival natural winemakers. The high prices paid for grapes, particularly in Burgundy and Jura, have been exacerbated by poor vintages in these regions, pushing producers to search beyond their borders for supplies. In fact, Pinot Noir production in Burgundy is down by an estimated 50% this year due to challenging weather conditions.
While some Alsace producers have downplayed the concerns, arguing that the quantities of grapes being bought by négociants are still relatively small, the trend has nonetheless raised alarms for local growers who fear they will be priced out of the market.
Growing Interest in Alsace Pinot Noir
Alsace, traditionally known for its exceptional white wines made from Riesling and Pinot Gris, has seen a significant increase in Pinot Noir plantings over the last two decades. The grape now makes up 13% of the region’s vineyard area, with plantings growing by 30% since the early 2000s, according to the Alsace wine board.
In a sign of the region’s growing focus on Pinot Noir, France’s INAO (National Institute of Origin and Quality) recently approved the Vorbourg Grand Cru Pinot Noir designation in southern Alsace, highlighting the increasing importance of the grape in the region’s wine portfolio. Two additional Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyards were also designated in 2022.
As the climate continues to warm, Alsace has seen more vineyards planted with Pinot Noir and Riesling, while traditional varieties such as Gewürztraminer have been in decline due to concerns over alcohol levels. In response, the region is experimenting with new varieties, including Syrah and Nebbiolo, which are expected to be officially recognized under the AOC Alsace appellation as part of a climate adaptation policy.
Julien Boehler, president of the Association des Jeunes Vignerons d’Alsace, confirmed that the Alsace wine board and the INAO are preparing to authorize new plantings of Syrah, Nebbiolo, and other disease-resistant varieties by 2025.
However, some established winemakers, like Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, have expressed concerns about the suitability of certain varieties in southern Alsace. Humbrecht, a biodynamic winemaker, noted that while Pinot Noir from Alsace tends to be more aromatic than Burgundy versions, its sugar levels may be increasingly difficult to manage in the region’s warmer climate. Humbrecht’s own estate recently experimented by replacing Gewürztraminer with Nebbiolo, planting 1,000 bottles of the new variety as part of a climate adaptation experiment.
The Future of Alsace Wines
Despite these challenges, Alsace’s identity as a wine region remains intact, according to Humbrecht. He emphasized that while the region’s wines are evolving due to climate change, the core characteristics of Alsace’s terroir—its intensity, acidity, and ability to produce world-class wines—remain central to its reputation. “The DNA of Alsace remains intact,” Humbrecht said. “What’s changing is the personality of Alsace wines.”
As the battle for Pinot Noir grapes intensifies, the future of Alsace’s wine industry will likely depend on how local producers adapt to changing market conditions and shifting climatic patterns. With increasing interest in the region’s red wines, particularly Pinot Noir, Alsace is poised to become an even more prominent player on the global wine stage.
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