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Addressing the Rotten-Egg Odor in Canned Wine

by Kaia

The rising popularity of canned wine has led winemakers to focus on improving packaging and processes to enhance both the quality and longevity of their products. Recent research from Cornell University’s Department of Food Science is set to aid this effort by examining how can selection and sulfite levels affect the flavor and aroma of canned wine over time.

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The canned wine market is booming, with a Future Market Insights report predicting that its market share will surge from $643 million in 2024 to $3.13 billion by 2034, reflecting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 17.10%. This growth is fueled by shifting consumer preferences toward moderation and convenience, as well as the desire to enjoy wine in various recreational settings.

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Marian Leitner-Waldman, co-founder and CEO of Archer Roose, which funded the Cornell study, notes that canned wine aligns with modern lifestyles. “Consumers are leaning into experiences. Our format allows us to meet them where they are and enhance those experiences,” she says. Archer Roose offers a range of premium canned wines, including Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, rosé, and sparkling varieties. Actress Elizabeth Banks co-owns the company.

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A key issue with canned wine is the development of a rotten-egg odor, caused by hydrogen sulfide. The Cornell study, published in the American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, explores how this compound forms in canned wines compared to glass-bottled wines. Researchers suspect that the interaction between aluminum cans and sulfites in the wine contributes to this problem.

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Sulfites are used by some winemakers as preservatives and are also produced naturally during fermentation. The Cornell study evaluated how different can liners and sulfite levels affect hydrogen sulfide formation.

The research involved testing five commercial wines, adjusting their sulfite levels and acidity, and then storing them in aluminum cans with three different liner types: bisphenol A (BPA) epoxy and two versions of BPA non-intent (BPA-NI) epoxy. A total of 270 cans were analyzed over four to eight months. The study found that molecular SO2 was the most reliable predictor of hydrogen sulfide formation.

Accelerated aging studies using 10 can types from five suppliers also showed significant variation in hydrogen sulfide levels, even with the same liner type. These findings suggest that the liner’s reaction with sulfites and its thickness are crucial for maintaining canned wine stability.

The Cornell research highlights the need for careful can selection to preserve the quality and shelf life of canned wine. Winemakers must balance sulfite levels to prevent spoilage while avoiding excessive reactions with aluminum.

Jan Kotowski-Chang, COO of Archer Roose, explains, “While canned wine uses significantly less sulfur than bottled wine, sulfur is essential to maintain freshness and provide a protective buffer.” The study’s findings are helping to set specific targets for sulfite levels, which is revolutionizing production methods in the industry.

Cornell’s findings are influencing how canned wine producers approach packaging. “To enhance shelf life and flavor preservation, we ensure consistent application of the can liner and work with partners who use the latest technology,” Kotowski-Chang says. Avoiding flavor additives is also crucial, as these can damage the liner and reduce shelf life. The focus is on balancing sulfites and pH levels to ensure the best possible quality and longevity of the wine.

By addressing these issues, winemakers aim to deliver high-quality canned wines that meet consumer expectations and stand up to the challenges of extended storage.

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