Master Sommelier Laura Maniec has long been a leading figure in New York City’s wine scene. Known for her expertise and numerous accolades, including being named one of Food & Wine Magazine’s “Sommeliers of the Year” in 2013, Maniec’s reputation continues to shine. As the owner and CEO of Corkbuzz, a popular NYC wine bar featuring up to 50 wines by the glass, she has successfully built a wine destination with four locations that host special events and classes. Corkbuzz’s flagship location in Union Square, established over 12 years ago, remains a standout in a city where many businesses struggle to last.
When it comes to Italian white wines, Maniec consistently turns to the northeast region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, specifically the area of Collio. “This region was one of the first I associated with premium white wines from Italy,” she explained. Her passion for Collio developed during her time as the wine and spirits director for a restaurant group that managed four fine-dining Italian restaurants. Collio became her go-to for high-quality Italian white wines, standing out for its remarkable value and exceptional quality.
Collio DOC: A Wine Lover’s Dream
Collio is a designated DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) winegrowing area known for its premium status. The region is shaped like a half-moon and features vineyards on sun-drenched slopes that benefit from the warmth of Adriatic Sea winds. These conditions create white wines with great concentration and complexity, while the cooler nights preserve the grapes’ acidity and aromatics. Natural elements like forests and the Julian Alps shield the vineyards from cold winds, which could impede grape maturation.
Collio’s unique soil composition, known locally as “ponca,” is a mix of stratified marl and sandstone formed around 50 million years ago. This distinctive soil contributes to the wines’ signature mineral and saline characteristics, adding a layer of richness and depth that sets them apart.
The region cultivates various white grape varieties, including native ones like Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, alongside international varieties such as Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio. However, Collio’s Pinot Grigio defies the reputation of mass-market simplicity. These wines are complex, deeply flavored, and serve as a testament to Pinot Grigio’s potential as a premium grape variety.
A Rich Cultural Legacy
Situated at the crossroads of Italy, Slovenia, and Austria, Collio boasts a rich history shaped by various empires over the centuries. The region’s winemaking families often have mixed ancestry, with Slovenian, Austrian, and Italian influences. Despite this diverse heritage, these producers share a dedication to crafting world-class white wines, even in a landscape where Italian red wines tend to dominate.
Several winemaking families stand out for their perseverance and commitment to quality. The Muzic family, for example, began producing wine in 1927 and survived the devastation of World War II. Today, they maintain vineyards with vines that are over 80 years old. Similarly, Cantina Produttori Cormòns is a cooperative of 120 local winemakers who pool their resources to produce wines of exceptional quality. The Livon family, celebrating its 60th anniversary, continues to innovate, cellaring top white wines for years before releasing them to the market.
Versatility in Pairing and Experience
One of the reasons Maniec frequently recommends Collio wines is their incredible versatility when it comes to food pairings. These wines not only complement a wide range of dishes but also align with her mission at Corkbuzz to offer unique wine experiences. Corkbuzz combines education, special events, and food-wine pairings to create memorable occasions for wine enthusiasts, with Collio wines often at the center of these experiences.
Top Collio Wine Selections
Several recent releases from the Collio region showcase the depth and quality of these wines:
2023 Humar Ribolla Gialla, Collio DOC: A vibrant wine with floral notes of citrus blossom and juicy peach, finishing with bright acidity and a distinctive saline minerality.
2023 Cantina Produttori Cormòns Pinot Bianco, Collio DOC: A rich, mouth-filling wine with flavors of apple tart and lemon meringue pie, balanced by a backbone of intense minerality.
2023 Muzic Pinot Grigio, Collio DOC: Complex aromas of Brazil nut, wet stones, and white pepper complement plush apricot and pear flavors, with bright acidity and a long finish.
2021 Livon Friulano, Manditocai Vineyard, Collio DOC: Enticing aromas of aniseed, almond paste, and honeysuckle lead into lemon sorbet and citrus peel on the palate, offering a refreshing experience.
2023 Ronco Blanchis Sauvignon Blanc, Collio DOC: This wine delivers tropical mango flavors with a hint of fresh sage and balanced acidity.
2021 Ferlat Collio Bianco, Collio DOC: Notes of baked apple pie, hazelnut, and warm croissants make this wine a comforting, elegant choice.
2015 Castello di Spessa ‘San Serff’ Collio Bianco, Collio DOC: With nearly a decade of aging, this wine showcases a multifaceted nose of smoky minerality, dried flowers, and beeswax, finishing with lemon confit and pineapple upside-down cake.
A Wine Experience Like No Other
Collio wines transcend the typical Italian white wine experience, offering wine enthusiasts a new level of complexity, richness, and discovery. For Laura Maniec and her customers, these wines are a true reflection of Italy’s dedication to premium winemaking and cultural heritage. Whether enjoyed at Corkbuzz or paired with a meal, Collio wines never fail to over-deliver, making them a must-try for any serious wine lover.
