As the 2024 wine harvest wraps up, wine critic Elin McCoy brings insights into the triumphs and challenges facing vineyards worldwide. From the landmark cabernet harvests in Napa and Sonoma to crop losses in Burgundy and Canada’s devastating freeze, this year’s report provides an in-depth look at what wine lovers can expect from this vintage.
Highlights from Napa, Sonoma, and Beyond
Napa and Sonoma are celebrating a standout year for cabernet sauvignon, despite intense heat waves that kept temperatures above 100°F for nearly 40 days. Winemaker Jesse Katz of Aperture and others are calling it a stellar cabernet vintage. Sonoma’s pinot noirs are also set to impress, with Jamie Kutch praising their intensity and balance. Even with climate pressures, parts of Oregon, Portugal’s Douro Valley, and some Italian regions emerged with notable vintages, while Oregon producers like Gina Hennen report a “dreamy” year for pinot noirs.
Other regions weren’t as fortunate. Canada’s Okanagan Valley is in crisis after an Arctic blast devastated nearly the entire crop. In Germany’s Mosel region, frost resulted in the smallest harvest in 50 years. Climate extremes challenged even traditionally robust regions like Burgundy, where 40% more rain and 25% less sunshine than normal led to mildew and low yields.
Europe: Contrasting Successes and Losses
France: France saw a generally lower yield, with regions like Burgundy and Jura suffering from record rainfall, frost, and mildew. Burgundy’s crop is down 22% compared to last year, making this one of its most challenging vintages in recent history. Champagne fared slightly better; despite weather setbacks, some producers are optimistic about quality due to the high acidity brought on by cooler nights.
Italy: Italian vineyards experienced a mixed season, with good outcomes in regions like Tuscany and Piedmont, where cool weather extended the growing season, allowing flavors to mature slowly. However, droughts in Sicily have impacted production, particularly for nero d’avola and grillo grapes.
Portugal and Spain: Portugal’s Douro Valley predicts a great year for port wines, while Spain’s regions varied widely in outcomes. Despite torrential September rains in Rioja, initial reports point to excellent quality, especially from producers in La Rioja Alta.
England: English vineyards saw a challenging season with intense heat, rains, and mildew, with some winemakers expecting up to two-thirds less yield than 2023.
Outlook on Rosé and Newer Trends
The demand for rosé remains high, and Provence and the Languedoc largely escaped the worst of the season’s challenges, promising an ample supply of this popular style. In Italy’s Prosecco region, despite reduced yields from rain and heat, producers anticipate a good vintage. Winemakers are also embracing climate-driven changes, with vineyards in northern Europe expanding, a testament to the industry’s resilience.
Unexpected Obstacles in Lebanon
Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, enduring daily conflict, faced uniquely grim conditions. Winemaker Ramzi Ghosn from Massaya reported navigating through violence to harvest. Despite the adversity, harvested reds possess robust fruit, balance, and complexity, emerging as symbols of resilience.
Reflections on an Unpredictable Harvest
The 2024 harvest embodies the wine world’s ongoing climate battle, with producers constantly adapting to volatile weather and other challenges. Yet, from Napa’s lush cabernet to Oregon’s refined pinot noirs, it remains a year of remarkable promise for wine enthusiasts.
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