Pierre Gassmann, representing Alsace’s Domaine Rolly Gassmann, has initiated a petition to champion the preservation of the region’s Rieslings’ diversity, countering what he perceives as a “normative frenzy” associated with proposed alterations to labeling practices.
Gassmann has distributed two distinct petitions—one directed at fellow winemakers and the other intended for the general public. The latter petition opens with an expression of concern regarding the purported intention to curtail the diversity of Alsatian Rieslings. This proposed measure would restrict the use of the term “Riesling” on labels of wines containing over 4 grams of sugar per liter. Gassmann vehemently opposes this decision, denouncing it as unjust and misguided.
The basis for Gassmann’s objection is rooted in a decision published in the Journal Officiel République Française Lois et Décrets (often abbreviated as JORF) on August 1 of this year. This decision emerged following a general meeting of L’Association des Viticulteurs d’Alsace last year. However, the Syndicate of Independent Winegrowers of Alsace (SYNVIRA), representing a substantial 438 producer members, largely stood in opposition to the proposed changes.
Gassmann continued to express his views, highlighting that the proposed changes would render the labeling of Riesling-based wines with a certain sugar content less transparent. This, in his perspective as a consumer, connoisseur, and influencer, is an alarming development. He pointed out that there is a well-established market for “demi-sec,” “moelleux,” and “doux” wines, and these designations would not simply vanish if these labeling regulations were to take effect. Instead, the new labeling system would needlessly complicate the comprehension of the wine offerings.
In emphasizing the significance of the unique attributes of “demi-sec,” “moelleux,” and “doux” Rieslings, which seamlessly express their terroir, Gassmann underscored the imperative to shield them from a “normative frenzy” that could standardize and dilute their identity and quality. He passionately advocates for the preservation of these nuanced wine types and their distinctiveness against any potential imposition of conformity and uniformity.
