OME, Japan — In a quiet warehouse tucked away in the pastoral outskirts of Tokyo, rows of enormous tanks filled with sake — Japan’s signature rice wine — are carefully aging, awaiting the day they are enjoyed by consumers worldwide. Each tank holds over 10,000 liters (2,640 gallons) of the centuries-old beverage that traces its roots to brewing techniques developed more than a millennium ago.
Junichiro Ozawa, the 18th-generation leader of Ozawa Brewery, a family-run business established in 1702, is hopeful that sake-making will soon be recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. A decision is expected next month.
“It’s an honor to think about the people who will enjoy our sake,” Ozawa said, speaking to reporters during a tour of his brewery. “The idea of people from all over the world experiencing our product is incredibly exciting.”
Sake, long celebrated as the drink of choice in Japan’s aristocratic circles — famously mentioned in the pages of The Tale of Genji, the country’s preeminent literary classic — has experienced a resurgence in popularity. Fueled by the growing international demand for Japanese cuisine, sake exports have reached new heights.
According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, Japan now exports over 41 billion yen ($265 million) worth of sake annually, with the U.S. and China being the largest markets. This marks a significant increase from the 22 billion yen in exports seen in 2018. Though still a small fraction of Japan’s total sake production, the beverage’s appeal is spreading to countries like Brazil, Mexico, and regions in Europe, where Japanese restaurants have gained a strong following.
At the heart of sake-making, which typically takes two months from fermentation to pressing, are two essential elements: rice and water. For a sake to be classified as “Japanese,” the rice must come from Japan, and the quality of water — like that sourced from Ozawa Brewery’s two local wells — is equally crucial.
Ozawa Brewery offers a range of sake, including the highly regarded Junmai Daiginjo, a full-bodied, aromatic variety with a 15% alcohol content, priced at around 3,630 yen ($23) per 720-milliliter bottle. Another notable option is Karakuti Nigorizake, an unrefined sake that is cloudy and earthy, with a 17% alcohol content and priced at 2,420 yen ($16) for a 1.8-liter bottle.
Sake’s deep cultural significance is reflected in the religious symbols found at Ozawa Brewery, such as the large cedar-leaf ball hanging under the eaves, which honors the Shinto god of sake-making. In Japan, sake is used not only as a celebratory drink but also as a spiritual purifier, often shared during sacred rituals or to mark special life events, such as weddings.
“Sake is not just an alcoholic beverage,” said Hitoshi Utsunomiya, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association. “It is an integral part of Japanese culture itself.”
UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage designation honors not only historical monuments but also traditional practices passed down through generations, such as oral traditions, performing arts, and festivals. While the UNESCO status is not intended for commercial purposes, proponents hope it will help boost global recognition and sales, especially as sake faces competition from modern beverages like beer and wine.
Sake’s growing international appeal is also linked to its versatility with food, pairing well with a wide variety of dishes, from sushi to spicy cuisines. Max Del Vita, a certified sake sommelier and co-founder of The Sake Company in Singapore, describes sake as a cultural artifact, embodying Japan’s seasonal rhythms, communal values, and artistic traditions.
“These brewers are cultural stewards, blending ancient practices with quiet innovation,” Del Vita said. “Sake is more than a drink. It is a living testament to Japan’s heritage and history.”
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