The 2023 Burgundy wine harvest has defied expectations, producing high-quality wines that belie the difficult conditions of the growing season. With overall volumes up 9% compared to the already plentiful 2022 harvest, and 29% higher than the five-year average, the 2023 vintage stands out for its surprising richness and depth.
Despite expectations that the warm and dry conditions, along with several intense summer storms, would result in diluted wines with undesirable green or raisiny flavors, the 2023 Burgundies exhibit vibrant color and fresh, energetic fruit. Pinot Noir wines are particularly notable for their deep color, with analyses showing more anthocyanins than the darker 2020 vintage. Both red and white wines display good structural tension, showcasing the region’s terroir with clarity and precision.
While Chablis saw slightly plumper structures and more fruit-forward profiles due to warmer harvest conditions, many producers, like Didier Picq of Domaine Gilbert Picq, noted a stronger sense of typicity in their 2023 wines compared to 2022. In the Côte d’Or, some whites show signs of near-overripeness, but overall, the wines retain their freshness.
Navigating Adverse Weather
The growing season started with concerns over unusually low precipitation, which was 80% below average by February. While frost damage was minimal, the lack of rain posed challenges throughout the year, with total rainfall down by 13% on average. However, when rain did fall, it arrived at critical moments, helping to balance the vine’s growth. Summer storms were frequent but brought little hail, with some areas like the northern Côte Chalonnaise suffering crop losses of up to 20%.
Winemakers credit their skillful
management of the challenging conditions for the overall quality of the vintage. As Frédéric Drouhin from Domaine Drouhin Vaudon put it, the year’s variable weather required constant vigilance and flexibility. With temperatures higher than in 2022, the growing season reached its peak heat during the harvest, which saw some of the hottest conditions ever recorded for Burgundy.
Harvest and Sorting Challenges
Despite the heat, many winemakers were able to maintain their organic and biodynamic certifications. The abundance of fruit allowed for selective sorting, with some producers, like Mathilde Grivot of Domaine Jean Grivot, opting to discard entire clusters rather than just damaged berries. In other cases, the harvest involved multiple rounds of green harvesting to manage crop loads, particularly in the Côte de Nuits. Some producers also turned to “blue” harvesting in August to ensure ripeness.
The vintage’s large crop load led to logistical challenges, particularly when it came to fermenting the grapes. Some wineries struggled with high temperatures during the harvest, with tanks reaching temperatures of 30°C (86°F), which required several hours of cooling. In certain cases, fermentation began in the vineyard, highlighting the intensity of the heat during picking.
Fermentation and Wine Characteristics
With acidities lower than usual, malolactic fermentations occurred quickly for many producers, often completing directly on the skins for red wines. In Chablis, some winemakers took extra steps to retain natural CO2 in their wines to enhance freshness. While acidification was avoided by most, certain wines from the Côte d’Or exhibited more angular profiles, which some producers attribute to the thickness of the grape skins in 2023.
Despite these challenges, the 2023 Burgundy wines show great potential. Many producers believe the 2023s will be more accessible and enjoyable earlier than the 2022 vintage, which is expected to shut down after bottling. The 2023s are often compared to the lighter, more vibrant 2017 vintage, with some likening them to the generous fruit character of the 2018s.
Reds Shine, But Prices Could Rise
Although the crop was abundant, red wines represent only 27% of the total 2023 Burgundy production. Bourgogne Rouge, which makes up nearly half of the red wines produced in the region, has seen price increases, with some producers indicating potential hikes in 2024. However, several others have refrained from raising prices, citing concerns about slowing sales, even in France.
The market is currently facing some uncertainty, with concerns over potential new US tariffs and a notably short 2024 crop. Despite the promising quality of the 2023 vintage, the global market remains volatile, making the future of this vintage somewhat uncertain.
Overall, the 2023 Burgundy vintage is being celebrated for its unexpected success, offering wines of notable quality and freshness despite a challenging year. As producers prepare for the release of these wines, they remain cautiously optimistic about both their marketability and their ability to meet the demands of wine lovers worldwide.
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