Scandinavia, traditionally known for its cold weather and stunning natural landscapes, is increasingly becoming a hub for wine production. Commercial vineyards are sprouting across Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, with a new generation of winemakers turning what was once a niche hobby into a burgeoning industry.
The vineyards, many of which are located far north of traditional wine regions like Bordeaux or California’s Napa Valley, are steadily gaining recognition. On Zealand, Denmark’s largest island, over 10,000 vines thrive on a hillside. Nina and Niels Fink, owners of Vejrhøj Vingård, a three-hectare vineyard, have been part of this transformation. They started their winery 13 years ago after retiring from business careers in Copenhagen.
“We have longer summer days with more sunlight than you have in France or in Italy, so the conditions are different,” explains Nina Fink. The Finks primarily cultivate green grapes, producing floral white wines, sparkling wines, and rosé.
The success of Scandinavian wineries is largely attributed to the adaptability of certain grape varieties. Among these, Solaris, a hybrid grape developed in Germany in 1975, has become the variety of choice. Its resilience to cold temperatures, rapid ripening, and natural resistance to disease make it well-suited for the region’s climate. First adopted in Scandinavia in 2004, Solaris has helped fuel the industry’s growth.
“People are often pleasantly surprised by the quality of our wines,” says Niels Fink. Initially producing only 4,000 bottles per year, their production has now increased to 20,000 bottles. The wines are sold directly from their vineyard and are also featured at top Copenhagen restaurants, including the three-Michelin-star Geranium.
The commercialization of Scandinavian wine production began in earnest after 2000, when the European Union allowed commercial vineyards in Denmark and Sweden. By 2010, winemaking had shifted from a hobby to a professional pursuit, attracting entrepreneurs to the region. Jean Becker, one of the first commercial winemakers in Denmark, started his vineyard in 2000 with only six growers. Today, Denmark boasts 150 commercial vineyards, covering 125 hectares, with over 1,000 amateur growers. Sweden, meanwhile, has 47 commercial operators on 193 hectares.
However, despite this growth, the Scandinavian wine industry remains in its infancy. In comparison, France and Spain have vast wine regions, with France cultivating nearly 800,000 hectares of vines, compared to the relatively modest 125 hectares in Denmark.
In southern Zealand, Jesper Rye Jensen of Vesterhave Vingaard grows red wine varieties like Pinot Noir and Merlot, traditionally associated with France. “It’s very challenging because it’s new for us. We have to learn as we go,” he says.
The climate plays a crucial role in the success of Scandinavian vineyards. Data indicates that both Denmark and Sweden have seen average temperatures rise by almost two degrees Celsius over the past 40-50 years, leading to milder winters and longer growing seasons. For winemakers like Jesper Rye Jensen, the warmer weather is a welcome change. “Climate change works in our favor,” he says.
However, others caution that the benefits of warmer temperatures are accompanied by challenges. “Climate change brings extreme weather patterns, long droughts, and heavy rain,” says Niels Fink. These unpredictable conditions can be as damaging to vineyards in Scandinavia as they are in other parts of the world.
Professor Torben Bo Toldam-Andersen, a fruit science researcher at the University of Copenhagen, suggests that the emergence of new, hardier grape varieties, rather than simply a longer growing season, has been the main driver behind the rise of Scandinavian wineries. Toldam-Andersen leads a program called “FastGrapes,” which tests new grape varieties for their resistance to pests and diseases, as well as their ability to ripen quickly in the northern climate.
The program has already led to the cultivation of new grape varieties in test locations across Scandinavia and beyond. “There are so many factors that go into creating the perfect wine,” said Toldam-Andersen, who is focused on identifying varieties best suited to the northern European climate.
Despite the progress, the Scandinavian wine industry faces several hurdles, including high labor costs, strict regulations on pesticide use, and difficulty in finding skilled workers. Romain Chichery, a winemaker at Thora Vineyard in Sweden, emphasizes the importance of training workers to meet the demands of this emerging industry.
While Scandinavian wines are slowly gaining recognition, they remain costly. In Denmark, a bottle of local wine can cost upwards of 200 kroner (around $27), more than double the price of imported French or Spanish wines. As a result, Scandinavian wines make up only a small portion of the local market, and exports are minimal.
Despite the challenges, there are signs of optimism. Nicolai Christiansen, owner of Vino Fino, a wine shop in Copenhagen, has sold Danish wine to a French bar owner, a feat he considers noteworthy given France’s reputation as a wine-producing powerhouse. However, he remains cautious about the local wine’s overall quality. “The Danish wine is still too expensive. It’s coming up, but there’s still some way to go,” he says.
Even so, some winemakers, like Thora Vineyard’s Heather Öberg, are confident that the Scandinavian wine industry will continue to grow and improve. “We can compete with other European wines,” she says, reflecting the optimism that’s driving the region’s wine renaissance.
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