Despite a recent report from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) indicating a notable 19% increase in Hungarian wine production for 2024, local vintners are expressing concern over the accuracy of the data and the reality on the ground. According to the OIV’s figures, Hungary’s wine production reached 3 million hectoliters, signaling a substantial boost compared to the previous year. However, many Hungarian producers argue that the actual outcome has been far less optimistic.
The discrepancy in the OIV’s reported figures stems from a reporting error by Hungary’s Ministry of Agriculture, which included unfermented grape juice, or “must,” in the submitted data. Typically, the OIV reports only on wine that has completed fermentation, leading to an inflated estimate that does not reflect the true volume of finished wine. The National Council of Wine Communities (HNT), which represents both registered and unregistered wineries, has indicated that actual wine production declined by 7% compared to 2023, rather than the reported increase.
Péter Gál, head of the winemaking and agricultural marketing department at Hungary’s Ministry of Agriculture, acknowledged the difficulties faced by local producers. “The harvest was exceptionally tough this year because the collection period was shorter than ever,” he said, while still noting that winemakers’ efforts resulted in wines of high quality.
The 2024 harvest season was marked by challenging weather conditions, including extreme heatwaves and irregular rainfall. These climatic disruptions caused early ripening, forcing many growers to accelerate harvesting. Kurt István Taschner, the owner of a family winery in Sopron, shared the struggles with fermenting certain red wine batches: “We’re still struggling with one lot; the volatile acidity is too high.”
In the Mátra region, Ágnes Dunai noted the impact of both drought and intense heat on her vineyards. “First came the drought, and then high temperatures, which caused all varieties to ripen simultaneously. We had to pick everything at once. While many estates saw production drop by 20% to 30%, we managed to maintain levels similar to last year.”
Meanwhile, Andrea Gere, a producer in Villány, described the harvest as “fast and intense,” but highlighted the satisfactory quality of red grape varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon. Ákos Kamocsay of Fehérvári estate in Somló echoed these sentiments, calling the harvest “very early and very quick, but generally good.”
While yields were down for many producers, the quality of the grapes has remained a source of optimism. László Romsics, CEO of Csányi Winery in Villány, reported a 10-20% decrease in yields but emphasized that the quality of red grapes was exceptional. “This vintage will produce extraordinary red wines,” he stated. Tamás Borbély, a producer in Badacsony, similarly noted that despite the challenges posed by the hot, dry summer, careful work resulted in “musts with excellent flavors.”
In Tokaj, Béres Vineyards opted to bring forward the harvest to preserve the acidity in their white wines, a decision they felt was vital to maintaining the wines’ freshness and balance.
The OIV’s global report, which showed a decline in global wine production to its lowest level since 1961, further underscores the difficult conditions faced by Hungarian producers. Europe, in particular, has been the hardest hit by climate-related challenges, with Hungary’s struggles mirroring those of its neighboring countries.
Despite the challenges, Hungarian winemakers remain focused on quality over quantity. Producers are confident that, despite a difficult harvest season, the wines produced will meet market expectations and continue to represent the high standard of Hungarian winemaking.
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