Sherry, a unique and versatile wine with deep roots in Spanish culture, has captivated wine enthusiasts for centuries. Hailing from the southern region of Spain, specifically Jerez de la Frontera, this fortified wine has a history dating back to the Phoenicians. Over the years, sherry has evolved into a wide variety of styles, from dry to sweet, light to rich, and pale to dark. But have you ever wondered how sherry is made? This article delves into the intricate process that transforms simple grapes into the distinct, flavorful sherry that we know and love today.
The History of Sherry
Before we dive into the production process, it’s important to understand the rich history that surrounds sherry. The name “sherry” comes from “Jerez,” the Spanish town in the Andalusian region, which has been associated with winemaking since ancient times. The Phoenicians were among the first to cultivate vineyards in the area, and over the centuries, various cultures, including the Romans and Moors, contributed to the evolution of the region’s winemaking techniques.
By the 16th century, sherry became a favorite in England, where it gained widespread popularity. The English term “sherry” was coined to distinguish it from other wines, and the drink grew in demand across Europe and the New World.
Today, sherry is produced in a demarcated area in Spain known as the “Sherry Triangle,” which includes the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María. This region’s unique climate and soil make it ideal for growing the special grapes that form the foundation of sherry production.
Grapes Used in Sherry Production
The first step in making sherry is selecting the right grapes. Sherry is made primarily from three grape varieties, each contributing to the different styles of sherry:
1. Palomino
Palomino is the most commonly used grape in sherry production, accounting for the majority of sherry wines. It is a white grape variety that thrives in the hot and dry conditions of the Andalusian region. Palomino grapes are known for their neutral flavor, making them the perfect base for a range of sherry styles, particularly dry ones like Fino and Manzanilla.
2. Pedro Ximénez (PX)
Pedro Ximénez is a sweeter, darker grape used to make the rich, dessert-style sherries. It is known for its high sugar content and its ability to produce wines with intense sweetness and complexity. PX sherry is often blended with other sherry types to enhance sweetness or used to create a dessert-style sherry all on its own.
3. Muscat of Alexandria
Though less common, Muscat of Alexandria is another grape variety used in sherry production. This grape imparts a distinctive, aromatic quality to the wine, often found in sweeter, more fragrant sherry types like Cream sherry.
The Harvesting Process
Sherry production begins with the grape harvest, which usually takes place in late summer or early fall. The timing of the harvest is crucial, as it affects the sugar levels in the grapes and, subsequently, the type of sherry that will be produced.
Grapes for dry sherries like Fino and Manzanilla are harvested earlier to preserve their acidity and freshness. In contrast, grapes for sweet sherries such as Pedro Ximénez are often left on the vine longer to develop higher sugar content, which is essential for the sweet characteristics of the final wine.
Once harvested, the grapes are carefully sorted and pressed to extract the juice. The pressing process is done gently to avoid extracting too many bitter compounds from the skins and seeds, which can affect the wine’s quality.
Fermentation
Once the grapes are harvested and pressed, the juice is fermented to convert the sugars into alcohol. In sherry production, this fermentation takes place in large open tanks known as “barricas.” The natural yeasts in the atmosphere of Jerez help to ferment the grape juice.
During fermentation, the juice is kept in cool, dark conditions to allow for a slow and controlled process. This process typically takes between one and two weeks. For sherry production, the goal is to ferment the juice to a relatively low alcohol content, typically around 11-12% ABV, as the wine will undergo fortification later on.
After fermentation, the resulting base wine is allowed to settle before being racked (transferred) into separate barrels for further aging and maturation.
Fortification: The Key to Sherry’s Character
Fortification is one of the defining steps in sherry production. This is when additional alcohol is added to the wine to increase its alcohol content and create the distinct characteristics that define sherry. This process also influences the wine’s aging potential and style.
Fortification occurs after fermentation but before the aging process begins. The wine is fortified with a distilled grape spirit called “aguardiente.” The amount of alcohol added depends on the desired style of sherry. For dry sherries like Fino, a moderate amount of aguardiente is added, bringing the alcohol content to around 15%. For sweeter styles like Pedro Ximénez, more aguardiente is added, bringing the alcohol content to about 17-18%.
The timing and level of fortification play a crucial role in determining whether the wine will be dry or sweet, and it also impacts how the wine will age.
The Aging Process: Solera System
Sherry is renowned for its aging process, which is central to its distinctive flavors and styles. Unlike other wines, sherry undergoes a unique aging method called the Solera system, a fractional blending technique that ensures consistency in flavor over time.
1. The Solera System Explained
The Solera system involves stacking a series of barrels, or “criaderas,” in a pyramid-like structure. The oldest barrels are at the bottom (the “solera”), and the youngest barrels are at the top (the “criaderas”). As wine is removed from the bottom barrels for bottling, it is replaced with wine from the layers above. This process creates a continuous blending of wines of different ages.
The Solera system allows sherry to achieve a remarkable consistency in quality and style, even as the wine evolves over time. This method of aging also imparts complex flavors, as the wine from different vintages interacts with one another.
2. Aging Under Flor (For Dry Sherries)
For many dry sherries, such as Fino and Manzanilla, the wine is aged under a layer of yeast called “flor.” Flor is a naturally occurring yeast that forms a protective veil on the surface of the wine. This yeast consumes the alcohol and protects the wine from oxidation, creating a unique set of flavors and aromas.
The presence of flor is essential in creating the light, crisp, and fresh flavors of these dry sherries. It imparts notes of almond, dough, and sometimes even a salty tang, particularly in the case of Manzanilla, which is aged near the sea in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the salty air influences the wine.
Flor can only develop under specific conditions, such as in wines with lower alcohol content (around 15-16%) and in the right environmental conditions. If these conditions are not met, the wine may develop a different character, resulting in a style like Amontillado, which starts as a Fino but is later exposed to oxygen after the flor dies off, leading to a richer, nuttier profile.
3. Aging Without Flor (For Richer Sherries)
For richer, more oxidative styles of sherry, such as Oloroso, the wine is aged without flor. This allows the wine to come into contact with oxygen, which causes the wine to mature more quickly and develop deep, complex flavors of nuts, dried fruits, and spices.
Oloroso is fortified to a higher alcohol content, typically around 18%, to prevent flor from forming. The wine ages in a more exposed manner, leading to a darker, fuller-bodied character compared to the lighter, more delicate styles like Fino.
Bottling and Blending
Once the aging process is complete, the wine is ready for bottling. However, even at this stage, blending plays an important role in shaping the final product. Sherry producers often blend wines from different criaderas, ensuring that the wine maintains a consistent style and quality year after year.
In some cases, sherries are sweetened by adding sweet wines such as Pedro Ximénez or other concentrates. The level of sweetness can vary, and this is often indicated on the bottle, such as in the case of “Cream sherry” or “Pale Cream sherry.”
After blending and, if necessary, further sweetening, the sherry is filtered and bottled. Sherry is typically bottled at a slightly lower alcohol level than it was aged at, usually around 17-20% ABV.
Conclusion
The process of making sherry is as intricate and fascinating as the wine itself. From the careful selection of grapes to the traditional Solera aging system, every step contributes to the unique and diverse range of sherry styles available today. Whether you’re sipping a crisp, dry Fino, a rich Oloroso, or a sweet Pedro Ximénez, you are experiencing a wine that has been crafted with centuries of tradition and expertise.
For wine lovers, sherry offers a world of exploration and discovery. Its versatility makes it an excellent pairing with a variety of foods, from tapas to desserts, and its complexity ensures there is always something new to learn and enjoy. Understanding how sherry is made enhances the appreciation of this remarkable Spanish wine, ensuring that every glass you raise is filled with history, craftsmanship, and a deep sense of place.
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