French red wine is confronting what industry experts describe as an “existential” crisis, driven by shifting consumer habits and an aging demographic. Younger generations in France are increasingly turning away from traditional red wine, opting instead for alternatives such as rosé, beer, spirits, and non-alcoholic beverages. If the industry does not adapt, experts warn, it could face further decline.
According to the Conseil Interprofessionnel du vin de Bordeaux (CIVB), red wine consumption in France has plummeted by about 90% since the 1970s. More broadly, total wine consumption, encompassing reds, whites, and rosés, has fallen by over 80% since 1945, with the decline accelerating in recent years. Survey data from Nielsen reveals that Generation Z now purchases only half the volume of wine bought by older millennials.
“The issues surrounding wine, particularly red wine, have become existential. These challenges have been brewing for over a decade,” said Spiros Malandrakis, a drinks analyst at Euromonitor International. He pointed to a deepening disconnect between the wine industry and younger generations, adding that the sector had grown complacent during the boom years among baby boomers.
This shift in consumer behavior is not limited to France. Globally, the wine industry faces challenges such as lower alcohol consumption and changing preferences, with younger people increasingly rejecting red wine. “If the grandfather drank 300 liters of red wine a year, the father drank 180 liters, and the son now drinks only 30 liters,” said Jean-Pierre Durand, a board member of the CIVB.
The sector is also dealing with a sharp decline in demand from China, one of France’s key export markets, and the ongoing impacts of climate change. Rising temperatures and unpredictable weather have led to production difficulties, particularly in the Bordeaux region.
While the decline in red wine consumption is widespread, it is particularly pronounced among high-volume, tannic reds, according to wine buyer Thomas Castet. As younger drinkers shift their preferences, many in the industry are pivoting towards higher-quality wines or diversifying their offerings to include whites, rosés, and low-alcohol varieties. However, making such shifts requires significant investment in new vines and equipment.
Durand, who also leads the wine producer AdVini in southwest Bordeaux, predicts a bleak future for low-cost wines, which are sold in France for as little as €2.50 a bottle. He notes that overproduction and an influx of inexpensive wines have tarnished Bordeaux’s reputation. However, the region is still home to high-end areas like Saint-Émilion, which is known for producing premium wines.
The shift in consumer preferences is being felt even at the highest end of the market. Brigitte Tribaudeau, who owns Château Mauvinon in Saint-Émilion, experienced a challenging 2024 harvest due to extreme heat and mildew—issues that have become more common with climate change. Nevertheless, Tribaudeau, who continues to produce high-quality grand cru reds, has been adapting to new trends. She began making white wine in 2018 and is now experimenting with low-alcohol wine, which is set to debut this year. Her winery, certified organic since 2017, has also become a draw for younger, health-conscious consumers.
“I noticed early on that drinking habits were changing, especially among younger women, who were drinking much less red wine,” Tribaudeau explained. “I started adapting to these changes and diversifying our production.”
However, not all winemakers are ready to innovate. The transition from red to white wine requires costly investments in new vines and equipment, and some vineyards may not be suitable for different grape varieties. Additionally, many producers remain committed to traditional practices, hesitant to embrace new trends such as wine mixers or canned wine, which could appeal to younger, experimental drinkers.
One of the most significant responses to the crisis has been the Bordeaux region’s initiative to uproot up to 9,500 hectares of vines. The two-year plan, launched in 2023, aims to reduce overproduction and control the spread of disease through poorly maintained vineyards. The initiative, which is partially funded by the French government and the CIVB, offers €6,000 per hectare for vines to be uprooted, with a total budget of €57 million.
“We can’t continue to produce wines that aren’t being consumed,” Durand stated. “When the model is broken, we adapt.”
As the wine industry faces an uncertain future, it will need to find new ways to connect with younger consumers and evolve its offerings to survive.
You Might Be Interested In:
