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Argiano’s Bernardino Sani Reflects on the Rapid Success of Montalcino’s Iconic Estate

by Kaia

Bernardino Sani, winemaker and CEO of Argiano, has seen his life change dramatically since his 2018 Brunello di Montalcino was named the world’s top wine of 2023 by Wine Spectator. While Sani has become a high-profile figure in the wine world, he remains grounded and dedicated to his craft, focusing on refining Argiano’s legacy.

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The estate’s rise from obscurity to prominence in less than a decade is a testament to Sani’s leadership. Just a decade ago, Argiano was in need of major renovations. In 2013, Brazilian investor André Esteves, along with a group of partners, took ownership of the estate. They entrusted Sani and agronomist Francesco Monari with revamping the vineyards and winery. The new direction for Argiano involved embracing a more classic style of winemaking, with a particular focus on Sangiovese.

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Sani credits the elegance of Argiano’s past vintages, especially those from the 1970s, as a major influence on their current approach. He recalls the balance and freshness of wines from that era, which inspired the team to craft wines that showcase the estate’s distinctive terroir. Through more delicate cellar practices—such as reduced oak aging and minimal extraction—Sani’s team has produced wines that emphasize fruit and finesse, highlighting the unique qualities of their soils, a mix of clay and limestone.

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Argiano’s wines, particularly its Brunello di Montalcino, are known for their balance of power and elegance. Sani explains that the estate’s wines are marked by a freshness and smooth tannin structure, making them versatile when paired with a wide range of foods—not just meats. This versatility is especially evident in their 2019 classic Brunello, which Sani describes as having a powerful yet elegant profile with nice red fruit and soft tannins.

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In 2023, the release of the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino, which received Wine Spectator’s coveted top spot, thrust Argiano into the international spotlight. The reaction was overwhelming, with Sani receiving hundreds of calls, emails, and messages in the days that followed. The recognition led to increased demand from high-end restaurants, including prestigious three-star Michelin establishments in both the U.S. and Italy.

Despite the newfound fame, Sani remains focused on what he calls the “heart” of Argiano: Vigna del Suolo, an iconic wine made from the estate’s oldest vines. Vigna del Suolo, with its complexity and unique flavors, exemplifies the estate’s commitment to terroir-driven winemaking. Sani sees this wine as the true expression of Argiano’s potential.

Sani’s journey at Argiano also saw him working with Giacomo Tachis, the legendary enologist behind some of Italy’s most famous wines. Tachis’s influence, particularly on the estate’s Super Tuscan blend, Solengo, shaped Argiano’s winemaking philosophy during the 1990s. Though Solengo’s style has evolved over the years, the influence of Tachis remains present in its blend, which combines Sangiovese with Bordeaux varietals.

Looking ahead, Sani is excited about the future of Argiano. He remains committed to improving viticulture practices and further refining the estate’s wines. While the success has been swift, Sani’s belief in the estate’s potential, rooted in its history and unique terroir, has always been unwavering.

As Argiano continues to grow, Sani’s passion for winemaking and his dedication to the land ensure that the estate will remain an influential force in the wine world for years to come.

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