The trend of valuing old-vine vineyards in California is gaining momentum, but many premium properties still remove older vines once they show signs of disease or reduced yield. This approach is often driven by business considerations, as producing wines priced above $200 a bottle becomes unprofitable when vines yield only a ton per acre—a common issue with vines as they age. However, recent developments highlight a growing opportunity to reassess grape varieties, rootstocks, and farming practices in response to climate change and a changing market.
Older vines, particularly those planted with material from nurseries unknowingly carrying viral infections, have faced significant yield suppression, contributing to the decline in vineyard productivity. Additionally, the knowledge accumulated over the decades has made it clear that some grape varieties that were once considered ideal in the 1970s no longer suit today’s market and environmental conditions.
In regions with centuries of winemaking tradition, such as France and Italy, vineyard management adjustments tend to be incremental, built upon a deep well of historical knowledge. In contrast, California, a relatively young wine region where large-scale grape farming only began in the 1960s, is experiencing a more dynamic transformation of its vineyards.
At Ehlers Estate in St. Helena, which has been growing grapes since the 1880s, winemaker Adam Casto says the vineyard team is still in the early stages of fully understanding how to optimize its production. “The idea of focusing on one grape, like Cabernet Sauvignon, doesn’t make sense anymore, especially with climate change,” Casto explains. “Other varieties, like Cabernet Franc, are challenging Cabernet Sauvignon’s dominance.”
In fact, Cabernet Franc fetched the highest price in Napa in 2023, at $10,633 per ton. Shortly before Casto joined the Ehlers team in 2023, the estate replanted 16 acres with Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc, reoriented the rows by 20 degrees, and increased spacing between the vines to improve airflow and minimize sun exposure.
“The broad goal was to create a wider canopy and protect the grapes from excessive sun,” says Casto. “What’s old is new again. We’re reviving a style called California Sprawl, which fell out of favor in favor of Bordeaux-style vertical trellis systems. But our climate isn’t like Bordeaux’s, and with climate change, these older methods are proving more effective.”
Looking ahead, Casto plans to graft Petit Verdot next year and experiment with new rootstocks that reduce water stress across an additional 6.5 acres. He is also doubling the Sauvignon Blanc production. Currently, he’s testing a new technique to minimize water and heat stress using 200 vines. “It’s based on research from UC Davis and Bordeaux, where I’ve elevated the fruiting wire to 50 inches. The goal is to create a more randomized sun exposure, helping distribute solar radiance evenly,” Casto explains.
Although the early results are promising, Casto intends to continue his experiment before scaling it up.
Further south in Santa Maria, Nicholas Miller, chief sales and marketing officer at Bien Nacido Vineyards, reflects on the lessons learned since the vineyard’s inception in 1973. Early plantings in Santa Barbara County were experimental, with a variety of rootstocks, clones, and grape varieties, including some unusual choices like Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, the estate covers 300 acres, down from its peak of 500, with a focus on varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
During the final phase of vineyard development in the 1990s and early 2000s, Bien Nacido formed the Culture Club with a network of winemakers to share risk and direct the selection of varieties, clones, and rootstocks. Miller notes, “The early days of planting in Santa Barbara County were a time of exploration, and now we’re applying all the knowledge we’ve gathered to better understand the vines and improve our future harvests.”
Both Ehlers Estate and Bien Nacido Vineyards are at the forefront of adapting to new challenges in viticulture, using a blend of historical wisdom and innovative techniques to ensure sustainability in the face of climate change and evolving market demands.
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