Graham Weerts, winemaker for Capensis, reflects on his return to Europe for the first time in over two and a half years, expressing palpable relief at reconnecting with his family in South Africa after a long time abroad. “What I enjoy most is my love for Chardonnay, especially those grown at higher elevations,” he says, noting that South Africa offers a unique opportunity for producing exceptional Chardonnay. Weerts emphasizes that his quest for top-quality Chardonnay led him to seek out the best vineyard sites across the country.
While Burgundy remains the spiritual home for Chardonnay, Weerts is crafting premium wines that rival the best, with some tastings even mistaking his wines for a Montrachet. He returned to South Africa 20 years after leaving to make wine in France and California, blending both commercial and spiritual fulfillment in developing Capensis. The winery focuses on vineyards in the Stellenbosch, Overberg, and Robertson regions of the Western Cape. However, Weerts notes that Capensis is not limited by geography, but rather by the quality of individual vineyard sites.
Capensis has grown into a family of three wines, all Chardonnay, under the ownership of Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines. Weerts and his team recently introduced their wines at Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat restaurant in Mayfair, London, where the wines were paired with an East Asian tasting menu. The Capensis Silene 2020, a standout from the Stellenbosch region, is a blend from the Fijnbosch vineyard and neighboring mountain sites. It boasts aromas of white nectarine, toasted meringue, and citrus blossom, with juicy stone fruit flavors and a refreshing, saline finish.
Next, the flagship Capensis 2020 Western Cape Chardonnay was tasted. This wine comes from five different vineyards across the region and is designed to age gracefully over time. The wine currently shows notes of tangerine citrus, river stone minerality, and toasted brioche.
Weerts explains that “quality is absolutely key” in his winemaking philosophy, striving for his Chardonnay to compete with the finest from Burgundy. He aims to captivate fine diners seeking wines beyond traditional wine regions, and believes they will not be disappointed.
The Capensis Fijnbosch Chardonnay 2019, produced exclusively during exceptional vintages, exemplifies the purity of a single vineyard within Stellenbosch. The Fijnbosch vineyard, at nearly 600 meters in elevation, has the highest planted vines in the district. This wine, which is limited to just 125 cases, opens with aromas of lemon posset and gunflint, followed by peach and lime zest notes and a minerally finish.
A rare treat was also presented—a 2015 Western Cape vintage, currently available only as library stock. Aged in French oak, this wine offers a luscious texture balanced by bright acidity.
Weerts also shared his latest project, Dalkeith, a smaller-scale venture focused on wines made from 50-year-old dryland bush vines. The winery, named after a famous Kalahari waterhole, uses grapes grown in decomposed granite soils. Dalkeith produces two Chenin Blancs and a Syrah, crafted by winemaker Mario Damo.
In addition to his winemaking success, Weerts enjoys his life in South Africa, where he also owns a herd of four Brangus cattle. These hardy and handsome animals, he hopes, will one day gain the same recognition as his wines.
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