Gippsland, an expansive 2.989 million-square-mile region in southeastern Australia, is gaining recognition as a top wine destination—moving beyond the outdated stereotypes often associated with Australian wine. While iconic regions like the Barossa Valley, Margaret River, and the Yarra Valley have long been in the spotlight, Gippsland, with its unique terroir, ambitious winemakers, and innovative practices, is emerging as the next big wine region to watch.
Bass Phillip: The Early Trailblazer
Gippsland’s wine scene was thrust into the spotlight in the early 2000s with the rise of Bass Phillip, whose Pinot Noirs were lauded in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wines. Bass Phillip’s Reserve, Premium, and Estate Pinot Noirs earned top spots in the rankings, placing them alongside renowned wines like Penfolds Grange. The wines quickly sold out each year, and since then, Bass Phillip has maintained its high standing, further elevating the region’s profile.
Patric Bennett, president and CEO of wine importer Vineyard Brands, highlights the importance of Gippsland’s cool climate, particularly as traditional wine-growing areas face the effects of rising temperatures. He emphasizes the region’s potential for producing exceptional wines in the face of global warming.
A Vast, Yet Small-Scale Region
Despite being the largest wine-producing region in Victoria, Gippsland is surprisingly under-the-radar in terms of production. Spanning 15,830 square miles—larger than Switzerland—it is home to just 240,000 residents. With only 52 producers and 617 acres of vines, Gippsland’s wines are often hard to come by, particularly outside of Australia. Wine Gippsland’s executive officer, Bernadine Phelan, notes that while many producers focus on local markets, the region is increasingly making its way onto international wine lists.
The climate, shaped by volcanic soils and the cool winds of the Bass Strait, fosters the growth of premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Gippsland winemakers pride themselves on their small-scale, artisan practices, and many are committed to sustainability and preserving the region’s natural beauty.
The Secret’s Getting Out
Gippsland’s winemakers, while proud of their region’s under-the-radar status, are aware that the secret may not stay hidden for long. Justin Jenkins, co-founder of Fleet Wines, points to the region’s potential, noting that many of the best wine sites in the New World are yet to be discovered. He and other winemakers believe the next few years will see continued growth and exploration in Gippsland’s cool-climate wine production.
Bass Phillip, despite its high profile, has taken a collaborative approach to the region’s success. Christopher Tan, commercial director of Bass Phillip, stresses the importance of supporting fellow producers in Gippsland, emphasizing their shared goal of elevating the entire region’s reputation.
Striking a Balance Between Demand and Supply
Gippsland’s wine scene is in the delicate position of balancing growing demand with limited supply. Producers are eager to expand into international markets like the U.S. and U.K., but production remains low. While some winemakers are planting additional vines, it will take years for these to reach full production. This scarcity, however, is part of the appeal. As Bennett from Vineyard Brands points out, Gippsland wines are not mass-produced but rather crafted with care and attention, making them highly sought-after by restaurants and specialty retailers.
Patrick Sullivan, who specializes in Chardonnay, notes the challenges of farming in Gippsland’s cool, high-rainfall climate. However, he believes the region’s unique terroir offers unparalleled potential, and he is committed to overcoming these challenges to meet growing demand.
A New Generation of Wine Drinkers
Gippsland’s rising reputation is resonating with younger wine drinkers who value innovation, sustainability, and a strong sense of place. Jenkins notes the increasing dynamism among younger consumers, who are drawn not only to high-quality wines but also to the stories behind them.
Bass Phillip is also reaching out to this younger demographic with more accessible offerings, such as their pop-up cellar door project in Melbourne. At the same time, some producers are working to create less expensive wines while maintaining their commitment to sustainable farming practices.
Neil and Anna Hawkins, founders of The Wine Farm, share the philosophy of creating wines that reflect both their commitment to quality and their dedication to environmentally conscious farming. They believe that as more young consumers become aware of the environmental impact of traditional wine production, they will be drawn to Gippsland’s sustainable approach.
The Future of Gippsland Wine
Gippsland’s wine exports are growing, with a 64% increase in volume and a 58% increase in value for wines priced above $10 per liter, according to Wine Australia’s latest export report. While the region remains a relatively niche market, there are signs that it could continue to grow in global prominence.
Ultimately, while production limitations may keep Gippsland’s wines exclusive, the dedication of its winemakers to quality and sustainability is likely to continue attracting a loyal following. The region’s ethos and approach to winemaking suggest that it may eventually become a recognized name in the international wine scene. For now, those who spot a bottle of Gippsland wine are advised to seize the opportunity—it’s a taste of something special.
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