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Missouri’s Wine Renaissance: Three Leading Varietals Defying Convention

by Kaia

Missouri, a state with a climate often considered challenging for traditional grape varieties like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, has witnessed a remarkable resurgence in its winemaking industry. Local producers have embraced French hybrids and native vines that can withstand the state’s humid summers and cold winters, reshaping the narrative surrounding Missouri wines. These varieties, often dismissed for their perceived sweetness and musky profiles, are now gaining recognition for their improved quality and complexity, thanks to the dedication of passionate winemakers. Among them, two standout hybrids, the versatile white Vignoles and the red berry-forward Chambourcin, are capturing the hearts of wine enthusiasts. Here are three remarkable wines that underscore Missouri’s evolving wine landscape.

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1. 2022 Noboleis Vineyards Dry Vignoles

Located in the German-influenced Augusta, Missouri’s first viticultural region, Noboleis Vineyards is one of the region’s noteworthy wineries. Their Dry Vignoles is a revelation – a light-bodied, highly aromatic wine that exudes notes of fresh pineapple, lemon curd, ripened white peach, and lemon verbena. The zesty acidity masterfully balances the tropical fruitiness, leaving the palate dry while the impression of juicy fruit lingers. Priced at $26, this offering from Noboleis Vineyards embodies the essence of Augusta’s winemaking heritage.

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2. 2021 Röbller Vineyard Vignoles Reserve

Röbller Vineyards in New Haven stands apart with its unique terroir. Unlike most Missouri vineyards with clay-heavy glacial soils, Röbller boasts Pennsylvanian Period limestone – a soil type revered in renowned wine regions like Champagne, Burgundy, and the Rhône Valley. Winemaker Jerry Mueller employs European techniques, including the careful handling of sediment left from spent yeast cells and extended contact with the fermenting wine. The result is a Vignoles with pronounced minerality, featuring notes of fresh golden apple, lemon zest, river rock, and underripe pineapple enveloped in a creamy texture. This exceptional wine is priced at $25 and is available at Straub’s.

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3. 2020 Eagles’ Landing Edg-Clif Chambourcin

Eagles’ Landing, under the guidance of Advanced Sommelier Eric Taylor, is pushing the boundaries of local grape varieties. The 2020 Edg-Clif Chambourcin is an elegant representation of this endeavor, sourced from ancient soils in the Ozarks. Grown in silty loam over Potosi dolomite, with hints of Precambrian St. Francis volcanic rock, this Chambourcin is an exotic expression of the varietal. Notes of watermelon rind, crushed cranberry, fresh violet, and sage dance on the palate. It possesses a light-bodied profile reminiscent of Gamay from Beaujolais, France, with moderate tannins refined by nine months of neutral French oak aging. Eagles’ Landing is redefining Chambourcin’s potential in Missouri, offering wine lovers a unique tasting experience.
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These three wines showcase the dedication and innovation of Missouri winemakers, challenging preconceptions and establishing a new era of excellence in the state’s winemaking history. Wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike are encouraged to explore these exceptional offerings, as they represent the vanguard of Missouri’s wine renaissance.

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