Cyprus’ Commandaria wine, revered by ancient Greek literary figures such as Homer and Euripides nearly 3,000 years ago, holds the distinction of being the world’s oldest recorded and named wine. Despite its rich history, the sweet wine has faced challenges in finding a strong foothold in the global market. However, recent efforts by micro-wineries across Cyprus are bringing a renewed focus on traditional winemaking techniques, offering Commandaria a chance for a much-anticipated resurgence.
A Storied Past and Royal Connections
Commandaria, known as “nama” in ancient times, was celebrated for centuries, even reportedly winning the first-ever known wine competition during the 13th century under French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart is said to have served it at his wedding in Cyprus in 1191, and 14th century London Mayor Henry Picard is believed to have shared it with kings from England, France, Scotland, Denmark, and Cyprus at the Feast of the Five Kings.
The wine was renamed by the Knights Hospitaller, who set up headquarters in Cyprus during the Third Crusade at an estate that produced the wine, which they named Grande Commanderie. Over time, the Orthodox Church adopted Commandaria as its communion wine during the Byzantine period. Its production reached its peak under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, celebrated for its unique sweetness and complex bouquet.
A Modern Struggle for Recognition
Despite its prestigious past, the global demand for Commandaria has dwindled, with annual production recently hovering around 200,000 bottles. Several factors have contributed to this decline, including the absence of a large number of Russian tourists due to sanctions imposed after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. In addition, an attempt to expand into the Chinese market five years ago stalled when producers struggled to meet demand.
Wine expert Demetri Walters, a Master of Wines, attributes the wine’s limited international success to a lack of marketing. He suggests that the island’s largest producer, KEO, has been slow to recognize the wine’s potential, particularly with older vintages. “The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality, and the terrific value for money … Everyone who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine,” Walters explains.
While sweet wines may be “out of fashion” in many markets, Walters notes that Commandaria is slowly gaining recognition, especially in the UK as a niche product.
Micro-Wineries Leading the Charge
Amid this struggle, smaller wineries such as Revecca Winery in the village of Agios Mamas are playing a key role in reviving the wine’s fortunes. Since its establishment in 2015, Revecca has steadily increased both domestic and international sales, with its Commandaria winning top honors at Cyprus’ national wine competition in 2024. Revecca produces 3,000 bottles annually, focusing on quality over quantity. Their personalized approach, which includes experimenting with bespoke varieties to cater to client tastes, has resonated with a dedicated following, including some international customers who make the trip to Cyprus to replenish their stock.
Commandaria is crafted from indigenous Cypriot grapes—dark mavro and white xynisteri—which are sun-dried for seven to 12 days after harvest to enhance the wine’s distinctive sweetness. The wine is then aged for at least two years in reused oak barrels, in accordance with European Union regulations governing its protected designation of origin. Authentic Commandaria can only be produced in 14 villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos mountain range, where the region’s abundant sunlight fosters ideal growing conditions.
Some producers, like the Karsera Winery in Dhoros, focus on a darker, sweeter version made solely from mavro grapes, with an annual production of around 36 tons. While the winery has seen an uptick in domestic consumption, the loss of the Russian market remains a challenge.
A Future Focused on Quality and Consistency
Despite the setbacks, winemakers remain optimistic. As Nikolas Christodoulides, curator at Revecca Winery, emphasizes, small wineries must prioritize product consistency and quality before making a concerted push to international markets. “We have to ensure the consistency of our product’s quality first and win over the domestic market before we can make a collective push to market Commandaria abroad,” he says.
For now, the revival of Commandaria hinges on preserving the traditional craftsmanship and heritage that has defined this ancient wine, while navigating the challenges of modern marketing and changing global demands. The renewed efforts of these micro-wineries offer a glimmer of hope that Cyprus’ oldest wine may once again find its place in the global market.
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