Poland’s once dominant vodka industry is slowly being overshadowed by the growth of wine culture, driven by changing social dynamics and evolving tastes. This shift reflects the country’s growing westernization and an increasing number of Polish citizens traveling to warmer climates, where wine is a staple.
At a recent “Taste of Poland” event in London, a growing interest in Polish wines was evident. The event, held at the historic Polish Officers’ Club, showcased 19 wine producers and just seven spirit distillers. The participation of so many wineries signals the rise of the country’s wine industry, although it still represents a small fraction of the country’s overall production. According to Poland’s only Master of Wine, Wojciech Bońkowski, over 500 wineries are officially registered in Poland, with about 200 producing wines for wider distribution.
Polish wine production is spread across the west and south of the country, with a significant concentration near the Slovakian border. The most prominent winery, Turnau, operates in the far northwest, benefiting from the Baltic’s moderating effects on its growing season. Although no official wine appellation system is yet in place, Poland’s winemaking landscape continues to grow and diversify, with innovative vineyards developing across even the country’s colder, more continental regions.
The country’s wine offerings are varied, with an emphasis on hybrid grape varieties that can withstand Poland’s challenging climate. These varieties, such as Solaris, Seyval Blanc, and Rondo, have been bred to resist disease and ripen early to avoid the harsh winter. Despite the prevalence of hybrids, Polish wines made from traditional European grape varieties, such as Riesling and Chardonnay, are equally competitive.
One standout feature of Poland’s wine industry is its focus on sparkling wines produced using the traditional method, a nod to the techniques used in the United Kingdom’s emerging wine industry. The wines are impressive, with a particular focus on whites such as Solaris. Reds, especially Pinot Noir, are expected to improve as the industry matures.
However, producing wine in Poland comes with challenges. Adam Michocki, Poland’s only wine importer to the UK, compares the experience to making wine on the moon, due to the lack of infrastructure. Many Polish producers are family-run, first-generation businesses with limited access to winemaking equipment. As a result, the cost of production is relatively high. However, there are signs of collaboration, with some producers sharing resources to mitigate these issues.
Michocki, who established Central Wines in 2021, has been advocating for Polish wine in the UK, focusing on the unique qualities of the wines. He believes that Polish dry Rieslings can rival Germany’s best, while its Chardonnays offer a competitive alternative to Burgundy’s more affordable offerings. His main customers are Michelin-starred restaurants, where he sees an increasing demand for wines with unusual hybrid grape varieties and distinctive flavors.
Despite these efforts, Polish wines are not yet widely embraced by Polish consumers abroad. At a tasting in London’s Ognisko restaurant, Michocki noted that the Polish wines on offer didn’t gain much favor with the largely Polish clientele. Nevertheless, the event itself was a clear sign of interest and enthusiasm for the country’s burgeoning wine scene, with many attendees curious about the potential of Polish wines.
As Poland’s wine industry grows in quality and visibility, its path reflects broader cultural and economic changes, with Poland’s rich history and modern prosperity now intertwined with a growing passion for wine.
You Might Be Interested In:
