The mineral-rich, rugged slopes of Mount Etna’s north face in Sicily provide a rare and dynamic environment for cultivating nerello mascalese, a native grape celebrated for its complexity and structure. Despite the seemingly harsh conditions of an active volcano, the area offers an ideal terroir for viticulture. However, climate change is beginning to challenge the delicate balance that makes this region unique.
The Unique Terroir of Etna’s North Face
Mount Etna’s ever-evolving volcanic soil plays a crucial role in shaping the character of its wines. Diego Cusumano, co-owner of Cusumano Winery and Alta Mora Wines, explains that the soil is in a constant state of renewal.
“The peculiarity of Etna’s volcanic soil is that it’s young and in continuous evolution,” Cusumano states. “The lava and ash create a system in constant ‘fermentation,’ where energy remains at elevated levels, carbon dioxide is drawn from the atmosphere, and life is constantly being generated.”
These active soils are rich in essential minerals like potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and calcium, which fortify vines against environmental stressors, enabling them to produce robust and flavorful grapes.
Altitude and Climate: A Delicate Equilibrium
The high elevation of Etna’s north face provides a cooler climate compared to other Sicilian wine regions. The lower temperatures slow the grape ripening process, contributing to wines with balanced acidity and refined flavors.
“The average minimum temperatures in September and October, around 14°C, create ideal conditions to slow grape ripening, enhancing the secondary metabolism of aromas and compounds that add depth of flavor and complexity,” Cusumano notes. “These temperatures help preserve the natural freshness of the musts and wines.”
Additionally, rainfall patterns and volcanic soil interactions create a distinct climate that differs from other Sicilian wine-growing regions and even from other volcanic terroirs like Vulture and Taurasi. The region’s balance of rainfall and cool temperatures is critical to sustaining high-quality nerello mascalese as climate conditions shift worldwide.
Climate Change: A Growing Challenge
Rising temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns are increasingly impacting the region. While the cooler microclimate of the north face provides some resilience, winemakers must adapt their techniques to maintain grape quality.
“The challenge is harnessing the earth’s energy to channel it into the grapes and ultimately the wine,” Cusumano explains. Managing vine growth has become more complex, requiring precise pruning and the careful selection of vineyard plots with optimal water access.
“The vine must be able to adapt in order to go from a cold winter climate to summer heat, then return to cooler conditions again at the end of ripening,” he adds.
The Labor-Intensive Reality of Volcanic Viticulture
The steep and rugged terrain of Etna’s slopes presents additional difficulties. Ancient lava flows have shaped narrow vineyard terraces, making mechanical cultivation nearly impossible. Most vineyard work is done manually, adding to the challenges faced by winemakers.
“Perhaps the greatest challenge, however, is that most of our operations are done by hand, because there are only small plots and terraces shaped by the lava and on which the vineyards are planted,” Cusumano explains.
Wind patterns also play a significant role in the growing process. Consistent breezes and lower nighttime temperatures help preserve the grapes’ acidity while fostering the development of complex tannins, which contribute to the wine’s structure and softness.
“These temperatures encourage the polymerization of tannins, resulting in soft, densely structured tannins that give density on the palate,” Cusumano notes.
A Future Rooted in Adaptation
As climate change continues to disrupt winemaking globally, the north face of Mount Etna is gaining recognition for its resilience and potential. The growing global demand for nerello mascalese highlights the importance of preserving this unique region.
“Nerello mascalese grown on the northern side of Mount Etna is in a state of continuous evolution and improvement due to the dynamic development of its soils, a climate highly favorable to quality, and a remarkable resistance to climate variations,” Cusumano says.
With winemakers embracing innovative approaches to adapt to environmental shifts, Etna’s north face remains a vital stronghold for one of Sicily’s most distinctive wines.
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