Monforte d’Alba, Italy – Nestled in the heart of the Barolo wine region, the Poderi Aldo Conterno winery stands like a fortress, its imposing structure a fitting reflection of the power and prestige of its wines. Recognized as one of the top producers in the Barolo zone, this estate is renowned for its exceptional ability to showcase the distinctive terroir of its vineyards.
Founded in 1969 by Aldo Conterno, the winery carries on a long family tradition of Barolo production that dates back to the 1920s, when Aldo’s grandfather Giovanni crafted the family’s first Barolo riserva. Though Aldo Conterno passed away in 2012, his three sons – Franco, Stefano, and Giacomo – continue to uphold the legacy, ensuring that the estate remains at the pinnacle of quality.
While Poderi Aldo Conterno produces a range of wines, including Chardonnay and Barbera, it is the Barolo that has made the estate internationally renowned. The winery’s portfolio includes three single-vineyard Barolos: Colonello, Cicala, and Romirasco, each a distinct expression of the vineyard’s unique terroir. Additionally, the Gran Bussia Barolo, a blend of these three vineyards, is produced only in the finest vintages and has become a legendary wine since its debut with the 1970 release.
Over the past few years, wine critic Tom Hyland has had the privilege of tasting the winery’s latest releases with Giacomo Conterno, who offers more than just technical details about each wine. According to Hyland, Giacomo’s descriptions go beyond the usual talk of soil and cellar techniques, offering a deeper, more intimate look at the “soul” of each wine. His passion and insight into the wines elevate the tasting experience, making it an engaging dialogue rather than a mere evaluation.
Reflecting on the 2021 Barolo vintage, Giacomo Conterno is enthusiastic, calling it “one of the best vintages of the last 20 years.” He praises the density, fruit character, mid-palate richness, and tannin quality, which he believes will allow these wines to age beautifully over the next two decades. “Barolo should be complex, but never complicated,” Conterno succinctly states, capturing the essence of the winery’s philosophy.
Conterno also weighs in on the growing influence of social media, particularly its effect on how wine is discussed online. He expresses skepticism about the platform’s value, lamenting that much of the conversation around wine on social media is focused on superficial excitement rather than deeper, more meaningful discussions. “Social media has created a situation akin to a bar where everyone is shouting to be heard, but no one is really saying anything of substance,” he comments. “The influencer culture has turned into a sales pitch, and that’s not what wine should be about.”
Despite his critical stance on social media, Conterno is not blind to its impact. He acknowledges that younger generations are increasingly consuming wine-related content on these platforms, but he cautions against neglecting older generations, who represent a larger demographic globally. “We must not forget that the real world, outside of social media, is different. In many countries, including the U.S., Europe, China, and Japan, older people outnumber the younger generation.”
Conterno’s reflections also extend to the wine industry at large, particularly the rising number of new wineries entering the market. While quality remains a key focus, he stresses the importance of expressing one’s unique terroir clearly to stand out. “Too many wineries produce ‘correct’ wines, but they don’t tell a story,” he says. “Wineries need to focus on the terroir and what makes their wine special, or else they risk being drowned out by the noise of social media.”
As the conversation draws to a close, Hyland asks Conterno if he has encountered poorly written or misleading articles about his family’s wines. Conterno admits he hasn’t noticed any specific instances, but notes that much of the confusion often arises from the comments of social media followers. “It’s like a bar,” he quips. “Everyone thinks they know what’s best.”
Poderi Aldo Conterno’s dedication to crafting world-class Barolos remains unwavering, and its wines continue to stand as a testament to the family’s commitment to quality and tradition. However, as Conterno’s candid reflections reveal, the challenges of navigating the modern wine landscape are multifaceted, and the conversation around wine – both online and in person – must evolve if it is to remain meaningful and authentic.
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