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Bhutan’s Historic First Wine Vintage Set for Auction, Pioneering Wine-Making in the Kingdom

by Kaia

For the first time in its history, Bhutan is stepping into the world of wine-making, thanks to the vision and ambition of two American entrepreneurs. Ann Cross and Mike Juergens, who initially traveled to Bhutan for a marathon, have now made it their mission to establish a wine industry in the Kingdom. Their efforts culminate in the debut of Bhutan’s first-ever wine vintage, which will be auctioned by Bonhams this month.

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The idea of creating wine in Bhutan was sparked by Cross’s long-standing admiration for the country, which she discovered through a book she read in high school. When Cross shared her dream of visiting Bhutan with her husband, Mike Juergens, he surprised her with an opportunity to run a marathon there. Neither of them had any intention of starting a wine business at the time, but the visit planted the seed for a much larger venture.

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Cross, who has a background in corporate roles with Mattel and Disney, became the chief executive of Bhutan Wine Company in 2018. Juergens, meanwhile, had developed a deep passion for wine over the years, which led him to earn certifications as a Level 2 sommelier and a Certified Specialist of Wine. He has also written books on the subject and works with Deloitte’s Winery Solutions and Services.

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The Vision to Create Wine in Bhutan

Juergens’s vision for wine-making in Bhutan began when he realized the country had an untapped potential for producing exceptional wines. Driven by his belief that Bhutan could rival the world’s great wine regions, he wrote a white paper and a 10-year business plan for establishing the wine industry. He also drafted wine regulations for the country, which was unfamiliar with viticulture.

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The Bhutanese government responded positively and invited Juergens and Cross to partner with local entrepreneurs Yab Dhondup Gyaltshen and Karma Choeda to bring the idea to life. The project quickly gained traction, and Bhutan Wine Company was born.

Finding the Right Land and Grapes

Bhutan’s diverse landscape, ranging from 500 feet in the south to 25,000 feet in the north, provides a variety of microclimates ideal for wine cultivation. To determine which varietals would thrive in the country’s unique conditions, Juergens and his team planted nine different grape varieties across six distinct microclimates. This approach has since expanded to 17 varietals across nine vineyards, as they continue to fine-tune their selection based on soil, altitude, and climate conditions.

The team worked with winemaker Francois Raynal, trained in Bordeaux, before hiring Matt Brain, a renowned Napa winemaker, to lead the project. Brain’s extensive experience and cultural compatibility with Bhutan made him the ideal candidate for the role.

The Historic First Vintage

The inaugural 2023 vintage of Bhutanese wine was intentionally small in quantity, serving as a symbolic milestone for the company and the country. The blend, known as Ser Kem (meaning “alcoholic gift to the gods”), includes six red and four white varietals from five different vineyards. Most of the wine was gifted to key stakeholders in the project, including government officials, investors, and the Royal Family. However, a limited number of bottles will be available for auction at Bonhams, offering wine collectors a rare opportunity to own a piece of history.

Looking ahead, the Bhutan Wine Company is preparing to release its 2024 vintage, which will include a variety of wines such as a single varietal Riesling, a dry Sauvignon Blanc, a Chenin/Chardonnay blend, and a Syrah rosé. The company is also producing small quantities of Bordeaux-style blends, Tempranillo, and Pinot Noir.

A Unique Terroir for Wine

Juergens is confident that Bhutan’s climate and terroir are perfect for wine production. The country’s pure air, pristine water, and fertile soils offer ideal conditions for growing high-quality grapes. Additionally, Bhutan’s status as the world’s first carbon-negative country aligns with the sustainable practices at the core of Bhutan Wine Company’s operations.

Challenges in Pioneering a Wine Industry

Building a wine industry from scratch in a country with no history of viticulture has not been without its challenges. The team has faced difficulties in establishing supply chains, managing pests like wasps and monkeys, and adapting to Bhutan’s high-altitude, monsoon-prone climate. They have also had to balance modern agricultural practices with the preservation of Bhutanese culture.

Despite these obstacles, Juergens and Cross remain committed to their mission. Their long-term goal is to expand Bhutan Wine Company from 200 acres of vineyards to 2,000 acres over the next seven years, while continuing to explore the nuances of the country’s unique terroir.

A Vision for the Future

While still in its early stages, Bhutan’s wine industry holds promise for the future. The wines already produced have received positive attention from wine experts, including Jancis Robinson MW, who sits on the advisory board of Bhutan Wine Company. As the company refines its practices and discovers what works best in the country’s diverse microclimates, it aims to share Bhutan’s distinct expression of wine with the world.

In a time of climate change, where traditional wine regions are being affected, Bhutan may prove to be a key player in ensuring the longevity of wine production. Juergens and Cross believe they are in the right place at the right time, with the courage and vision to pioneer this new chapter in wine history.

Who Will Collect Bhutan’s Historic Wines?

The wines produced by Bhutan Wine Company, especially those from the 2023 vintage, are expected to attract serious collectors and wine enthusiasts. Owning a bottle from Bhutan’s first-ever vintage will be a unique opportunity for wine aficionados to acquire a piece of history. As the company continues to explore the full potential of Bhutan’s terroir, it may soon be recognized as a producer of some of the world’s finest wines.

The auction of the inaugural 2023 vintage wines at Bonhams marks a significant moment in the global wine industry, allowing collectors to own a rare piece of wine-making history that is as unique as the Kingdom of Bhutan itself.

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