South African wine has long been dominated by winemakers from historically advantaged backgrounds, but this landscape is gradually transforming. A growing number of winemakers of colour are now making their mark on the country’s prestigious wine industry. Initiatives like the Cape Winemakers Guild (CWG) Protegé programme are playing a pivotal role in fostering opportunities for young, talented individuals from disadvantaged communities. This programme allows newly graduated winemakers to work alongside some of South Africa’s top industry figures, providing invaluable hands-on experience.
One of the standout success stories from this initiative is Kiara Scott Farmer, who was named the 2024 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year. Kiara’s achievement highlights the growing number of young, award-winning winemakers emerging from previously underrepresented backgrounds. According to Rudger van Wyk, another young alumnus of the CWG programme, the change is palpable. “Back in 2020, there were only a handful in serious roles. Now there are almost double that,” he says.
Rudger, who launched his own wine brand, New Dawn, after a successful tenure as head winemaker at Stark-Condé in Stellenbosch, attributes much of his success to the opportunities provided by the Protegé programme. The winemakers I spoke to exemplify resilience and innovation, with many building impressive careers against the odds.
Berene Sauls, known for her Burgundian-style pinot noir, has a particularly inspiring journey. Once working as an au pair in the Hemel-en-Aarde region, she gradually moved into clerical roles before joining the winemaking team and eventually establishing her own brand, Tesselaarsdal. Praisy Dlamini’s story is equally remarkable: after years of hard work in the wine industry, she founded Her, a groundbreaking winery entirely staffed by Black women.
These trailblazing winemakers share a passion for quality and innovation. Rudger, for instance, is inspired by Rhône varietals, while Kiara embraces a low-intervention approach and is experimenting with field blends. Despite the increasing recognition, they are determined not to be defined solely by their race or ethnicity. “Just because you’re a person of colour… you still have a responsibility to put a good product into the bottle,” says Rudger. He notes that many winemakers of colour do not come from farming backgrounds steeped in generational knowledge, making their achievements even more impressive.
However, the challenges remain significant. Land ownership and access to high-quality fruit continue to be obstacles for many, particularly due to South Africa’s complex socio-economic history. “It’s hard enough for someone who comes from money to make it as a South African winemaker, let alone people from marginalised groups,” says Mags Janjo, a Black importer of South African wines based in the UK.
Despite these barriers, the collective determination of Black South African winemakers is inspiring. “I’ve been reasonably successful,” says Rudger. “And I see it as one of my responsibilities to help younger folk. South Africa is a diverse community, and we should celebrate it.”
As the wine industry becomes more inclusive, these winemakers continue to push boundaries and prove that exceptional talent can come from anywhere. Their wines are a testament to both their individual perseverance and the shifting tides within the industry.
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