The Wines from Spain Annual Tasting, held this year at the Science Museum, proved once again why Spain is a powerhouse in the world of wine. With over 600 wines on display from both importers and individual producers, the event offered an extensive overview of the country’s dynamic wine landscape.
Among the many tasting tables, two standout masterclasses captured the attention of wine enthusiasts: Beth Willard’s session on ‘New Trends,’ and Sarah Jane Evans MW’s exploration of ‘Rare Varietals.’ These masterclasses highlighted the evolving face of Spanish winemaking, showcasing emerging trends, rare grape varieties, and innovative winemaking practices that are gaining momentum across the country.
Gastronomic Whites and the Evolution of Spanish Wines
Willard’s masterclass began with a bold declaration: “White wines are so exciting in Spain at the moment!” Traditionally dominated by red wines in both consumption and production, Spain has recently seen a wave of gastronomic white wines gaining prominence, many of which exhibit remarkable aging potential. This shift reflects a broader trend in Spanish winemaking, where producers are embracing the complexity and depth of white wines that go beyond the quick consumption styles typically associated with Spain.
A prime example of this movement is the Astobiza Malkoa 2016, an almost decade-old Txakoli. Aged for 20 months in concrete eggs, this wine stands in stark contrast to the usual young, spritzy Txakoli, offering a textured, complex profile. Astobiza Estate, one of the ‘Grandes Pagos de España,’ has made a name for itself by crafting high-quality, single estate wines. Malkoa is the flagship wine of their aged collection, released only after several years of bottle evolution.
Willard also highlighted the evolving potential of wines made from Airén, one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. While traditionally used for neutral wines and brandy, Airén is being reimagined in Spain by some producers, particularly those working with old vines, to create wines that focus on texture and aging potential. Finca Villalobillos Airén Pie Franco 2021, made from ungrafted vines planted in 1935, exemplifies this shift, offering a wine with vibrant acidity and an elegant complexity.
A Return to Tradition and the Revival of Indigenous Grapes
The revival of traditional winemaking practices was another key theme, as both Willard and Evans observed that many Spanish producers are moving away from heavily oaked wines and returning to ancient winemaking methods. This trend is particularly evident in Rioja, where old vineyards and indigenous varieties are once again being prioritized.
For instance, Viñedos El Pacto Ojo de Gallo 2022 is a field blend from 100-year-old vineyards in Rioja Alta, with vibrant wild strawberry and juicy fruit notes. Similarly, Struggling Vines Sasikume 2023, made from the rare Maturana Tinta grape, offers a refreshing, chillable red with crunchy sour cherry flavors. Rioja estates like Ijalba and Bodegas Juan Carlos Sancha are leading the way in replanting ancient varieties, with wines like Ijalba Maturana Blanca 2023, a floral white with peach and melon notes, and Ad Libitum Maturana Tinta 2019, which showcases dark plums and cherries.
Spain’s Rich Grape Variety Diversity
With over 500 grape varieties cultivated across Spain, the country’s wine industry offers an extraordinary wealth of options for adventurous wine lovers. Evans highlighted the rich diversity of these lesser-known varieties, such as Hondarrabi Beltza from Bizkaiko Txakolina, which shows the potential for high-quality reds from cooler Spanish regions. Gorka Izagirre’s Ilun 2023 is a striking example, offering a blend of crunchy red fruit with a subtle ripeness on the palate.
In Alicante, Pepe Mendoza’s Giró de Abargués 2021 continues to surprise, showcasing the delicate, complex flavors of this lesser-known grape. Mendoza’s estate is known for producing wines from old vines on stony soils, and Giró de Abargués is a prime example, with ripe dark fruits and a layered spiciness.
Xarel.lo, traditionally associated with Cava production, is also gaining recognition as a still wine from Penedès. Albet i Noya El Fanio 2023, made from 80-year-old vines, displays a rich, honeyed profile, while Alemany i Corrió Principia Mathematica 2023 offers a refined, Burgundian-style take on the grape, with delicate oak and stone fruit flavors.
The Continued Rise of Island Wines
Island wines also stole the spotlight at the event, with several exceptional wines from Spain’s islands. Bodegas Viñátigo Vijiriego Blanco 2022, from pre-phylloxera vines in Tenerife, presents a smoky, golden-hued white, while Vinos Atlante Blanco 2021, a field blend from Tenerife’s 150-year-old vines, offers a flinty, saline character. In Mallorca, Can Axartell Rosado 2024 is a delightful rosé blend of Manto Negro, Callet, and Pinot Noir, demonstrating the island’s potential for well-balanced, easy-drinking wines.
Conclusion: Spain’s Wine Renaissance
As Sarah Jane Evans aptly stated, Spain is currently experiencing a blossoming of its wine industry, with an expanded range of clones, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques. While the 20th century saw a focus on high-yielding varieties in response to the phylloxera epidemic, Spain is now embracing a broader spectrum of grapes and a more diverse winemaking philosophy. With so much to explore, Spain’s wine scene is poised to continue captivating enthusiasts around the world with its innovation, tradition, and rich varietal heritage.
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