Sherry, often perceived as a sweet, high-alcohol, and somewhat old-fashioned drink, is seeing a resurgence in popularity. While sherry is indeed a fortified wine and generally has a higher alcohol content than typical wines, much of the production is dry and not as potent as some may assume. Among the high-quality varieties, dry sherries have been gaining favor, and these unique wines are increasingly being celebrated for their remarkable pairing with food.
Although overall sales of sherry have declined since its peak, there has been a shift towards premium offerings. Consumers are becoming more discerning and are seeking higher-quality wines. As a result, demand for inexpensive and cream sherries—such as the well-known Bristol Cream—is on the decline, while sales of top-tier dry sherries are on the rise.
Carlos González-Gordon, of the renowned González Byass sherry house, remains optimistic about the future of sherry, particularly the dry varieties. “Sherry is coming back, and dry sherries are growing,” he says. “These are gastronomic wines, and there is significant interest from younger consumers, who are eager to pair dry sherries with salty foods.”
A New Dynamic in the Sherry Triangle
In recent years, the three towns of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and Puerto de Santa María—known collectively as the “Sherry Triangle”—have seen a renewed energy in their sherry production. Though historically dominated by large, established houses, smaller producers are now emerging, injecting fresh perspectives into this time-honored wine region.
González Byass, founded in 1835 by Manuel María González Ángel, is one of the oldest and most renowned names in the sherry industry. Their flagship fino, Tío Pepe, is one of the driest styles of sherry and is widely available across global markets.
What Makes Sherry So Special?
Carlos González-Gordon identifies five key factors that contribute to the distinctiveness of sherry: the region’s unique soil, the grapes used, the solera system, and the two types of aging processes—biological and oxidative.
The Albariza Soil
Sherry wines are made in Andalusia, Spain’s southernmost region, where the climate is hot and dry. The key to vine survival in this harsh environment is the region’s calcareous soil, known as albariza. This soil, rich in chalk, absorbs water during the infrequent rains and releases it slowly to the vines throughout the dry summer months. González-Gordon emphasizes that, despite the arid climate, no irrigation is used in the region, thanks to the soil’s natural ability to retain moisture.
The Sherry Grapes
The primary grape variety used in sherry production is Palomino, a white grape that thrives in the albariza soil. Palomino is known for producing relatively neutral wines, but the true character of sherry comes from its winemaking process and aging techniques. Sherry undergoes fermentation to dryness, reaching an alcohol content of 11-12%. From here, the wine is divided into different styles, with fino and manzanilla being the lightest, and oloroso reserved for richer, more complex sherries.
The Solera System
Sherry is unique in that it is not sold by a specific vintage. Instead, it undergoes aging in the solera system, where barrels of wine from different ages are stacked on top of each other. The oldest wine is at the bottom, and wine is drawn from this lower cask, then replaced with wine from the cask above. This system ensures consistency and blends wines of various ages, maintaining a steady quality and incorporating a small amount of older, characterful wine into each bottle.
Biological Aging: The Role of “Flor”
For fino and manzanilla sherries, the aging process includes a crucial step known as crianza biológica or biological aging. The wine is fortified to 15% alcohol, allowing a natural yeast film called flor to develop on the surface of the wine. This layer protects the wine from oxidation and contributes to its dry, delicate character. The flor yeast consumes the glycerol in the wine, producing acetaldehyde, which imparts a distinctive salty flavor and almond-like aromas.
Manzanilla, which undergoes aging specifically in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, is known for its unique freshness and salty profile. Mercedes Cantos Ruiz, owner of Bodega Juan Piñero in Sanlúcar, emphasizes the elegance that flor brings to sherry. “The flor gives taste and elegance,” she explains. “Here, the yeast comes naturally thanks to the climate.” One of their standout offerings is the Maruja Manzanilla Pasada En Rama, a wine aged for 12 years, known for its complexity and depth.
Oxidative Aging: Oloroso and Beyond
For oloroso sherries, a different approach is taken. These wines are fortified to around 17% alcohol, which halts the development of flor and allows for oxidative aging. This process darkens the wine and intensifies its aromas, producing a rich, complex flavor profile. Oloroso can be enjoyed as a dry wine or sweetened with Pedro Ximénez, a variety used for sweeter sherries.
Amontillado, a stronger variation of fino, is another popular style. It begins with biological aging for three years before being fortified to 17-18% alcohol and undergoes further oxidative aging. Amontillado wines are dry but exhibit a richer, more intense character compared to fino.
Adapting to New Trends
Sherry is evolving to meet new consumer demands. For instance, the minimum alcohol content may soon be reduced from 15% to 14%, and some innovative producers are experimenting with non-fortified wines aged with flor, mimicking the style of fino without the added spirits.
While the flavor profile of a fino or manzanilla might be surprising to first-time drinkers, these wines pair exceptionally well with a wide range of dishes, from salted almonds and Iberian ham to grilled octopus and gazpacho. Sherry is a wine that demands reflection; each sip offers a new experience, making it a perfect choice for those seeking to explore the world of food and wine pairings.
You Might Be Interested In:
