In 2022, Wilco Lam, an established winemaker, found himself at a pivotal moment in his career. After spending a decade at Dry River, one of Martinborough’s most respected and historic wineries, Lam was faced with a change when the winery was sold. With the new ownership came the threat of losing his close-knit team, which had become integral to his winemaking philosophy.
“There was the prospect of losing that, losing the wine culture we had created together,” Lam reflects. It was a defining moment for the winemaker, who realized how deeply the people around him—particularly his team—understood the vision he was trying to bring to the vineyard.
Rather than staying under the new ownership, Lam made the decision to leave Dry River. He took several key members of the team with him, including General Manager Sarah Bartlett and Vineyard Manager Michelle Mills, and together they sought out a new venture. They found an established vineyard on the outskirts of Martinborough, originally planted in the mid-1980s and having supplied grapes to top local labels such as Escarpment. At the time of purchase, the vineyard was producing wine under the label On Giants’ Shoulders.
Lam and his team renamed the property Oraterra—a Māori word meaning “golden earth”—and set about farming the land themselves, focusing on creating wines that would reflect their unique vision.
The term “tūrangawaewae”—meaning “the place where you stand”—has become central to Lam’s winemaking philosophy. The concept, which has gained traction among New Zealand winemakers, parallels the French idea of terroir, emphasizing the connection between a winemaker and the land. Lam, who hails from the Netherlands, says that his travels and experiences, especially his time at Dry River, helped him find a sense of belonging in Martinborough. “For many years, I was a wanderer,” he says. “But Dry River gave me roots and a place to stand.”
The importance of teamwork in expressing a vineyard’s terroir is not lost on Lam. He compares the relationship between people and the land to that of trees growing together in a forest. “The best way for a tree to survive is to have other trees around it,” Lam says. “At Dry River, it was the team that kept me inspired and motivated. When we got the opportunity to start Oraterra, I was happy to hear that everyone shared the same vision.”
Lam’s dedication to his craft is evident in the inaugural wines produced at Oraterra. Tasting the wines at the Pinot Noir New Zealand conference in Christchurch and later in Martinborough, I was impressed by their quality and unique presentation. The wines are packaged in distinctive bottles inspired by the Jura region’s design, and the labels feature artwork by Leanne Williams, which reflects Lam’s own visual tasting notes.
What makes these wines even more remarkable is that they were produced amid the challenges of a difficult vintage. In 2023, Lam and his team were already grappling with the pressure of completing the harvest when Cyclone Gabrielle struck. Though the storm’s impact in Martinborough was less severe than in other parts of the North Island, the region still experienced significant rainfall.
“It impacted us quite severely in the vineyard,” Lam recalls. “But it was amazing to see how the team came together. They knew what needed to be done, and they did it.” Lam notes that this experience reaffirmed his belief in the power of teamwork and the importance of trusting those around him.
Oraterra’s inaugural wines, which include a 2023 Pinot Gris, Pinot Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, are already receiving high praise for their quality and complexity.
Oraterra Pinot Gris 2023: ($68) is a ripe, wild-fermented wine with 14.5% alcohol. Its bright golden-yellow hue is complemented by a spicy, floral aroma, while the wine’s rich texture offers flavors of creamy, sweet-fleshed fruit.
Oraterra Pinot Chardonnay 2023: ($100) focuses on texture rather than aroma. While the wine presents a subtle, minerally nose, it fills the palate with honeyed nuts and savory length, showcasing the team’s commitment to crafting a wine that prioritizes mouthfeel.
Oraterra Pinot Noir 2023: ($115) offers an intriguing mix of brightness and complexity. Initially, the wine presents crunchy red fruit and herbal perfume, but it quickly evolves on the palate into a more serious and structured experience, with hedgerow berries, sticky tannins, and a long aging potential.
The wines will soon be available in Australia, imported by saintwine.com.au.
The author visited Martinborough as a guest of New Zealand Winegrowers.
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