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White Wines on the Rise: Rhône Valley’s Laudun Gains Cru Status Amid Global Market Shifts

by Kaia

Returning from France’s Rhône Valley, the country’s second-largest wine-growing region responsible for nine per cent of national production, it’s clear the area is steeped in Old World charm while simultaneously embracing modern shifts. A new generation of winemakers is adapting to changing global consumer tastes — and perhaps nowhere is this more evident than in the unexpected surge of white wine production.

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Traditionally, the Rhône Valley has been dominated by red wines (74 per cent), with rosé accounting for 14 per cent and whites making up just 12 per cent. However, white wines are increasingly gaining favor among both younger and older drinkers worldwide. Lighter in alcohol, fresher on the palate, and often more affordable than reds, white wines’ versatility with food and the trend toward chilled beverages has positioned them for rapid growth.

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One village leading this transformation is Laudun, which achieved a significant milestone on September 11, 2024, becoming the 18th cru of the Rhône Valley. This promotion — a crucial recognition of superior terroir and quality — elevates Laudun alongside prestigious appellations such as Hermitage, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Saint-Joseph, Côte-Rôtie, and its illustrious neighbor across the Rhône River, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Laudun had previously held the status of Côtes du Rhône Villages with a geographical designation since 1967.

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Under its new appellation rules, AOP (formerly AOC) Laudun will produce only red and white wines, with rosé no longer permitted. Red wines will continue to be based on Syrah and Grenache, with Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise, and Vaccarèse contributing to blends. Yet it is the whites that are poised to define the village’s future.

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Nearly 30 per cent of Laudun’s wine production is now white, a figure that is helping to rebalance the Rhône’s historically red-dominated output. According to new regulations, Laudun whites must feature Grenache Blanc and Clairette as principal varieties, enhanced by Roussanne, Viognier, and Bourboulenc, with Rolle (Vermentino) also allowed.

The shift makes strategic sense, given the high quality and growing global appeal of Rhône white wines. Here in British Columbia, similar trends are emerging, with local wineries increasingly planting Rhône varieties like Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier. With continued favorable weather, there’s potential to mirror Rhône’s success by creating lighter, fresher white blends to complement the region’s established offerings of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Albariño.

While Laudun whites are still relatively rare, other Rhône whites are readily available through government and private retailers and restaurants. Recent tastings highlight some standout examples:

Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023 ($17.99, 89/100): A lively blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Roussanne offering bright pear and citrus flavors with a mineral finish. Ideal for pairing with West Coast seafood.

Gabriel Meffre Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2023 ($18.99, 89/100): Featuring Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier, this dry, floral wine balances spice and minerality beautifully — a perfect match for spring and summer seafood dishes.

The evolution of wine isn’t limited to France. In response to a significant crop loss in B.C. in 2024, producers have innovated with Washington-grown grapes:

Poplar Grove Pinot Gris Cascadia Series 2024 ($23.49, 88/100): Made with Washington Pinot Gris, this fresh, easy-drinking wine showcases nectarine, pear, and minerality, perfect for sunny patios.

Blue Grouse Estate Reserve Pinot Gris 2023 ($40, 91/100): A standout from Vancouver Island, offering depth and minerality reminiscent of top northern Italian Pinot Grigios. Best paired with local seafood.

Other notable selections include the Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2022 from Tuscany ($39.99, 90/100), a classic, food-friendly Sangiovese/Canaiolo blend ideal for meaty pasta or grilled chicken.

Beyond wine, Vancouver’s vibrant hospitality scene is making headlines. On April 29, the city will host North America’s 50 Best Bars 2025 at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, celebrating Vancouver’s emergence as a global mixology hotspot. Sponsored by Cointreau, the event will feature workshops, tastings, and masterclasses leading up to the awards ceremony.

Meanwhile, local culinary celebrations continue with the Spot Prawn Festival on May 25, organized by the Chefs’ Table Society of B.C. Visitors can enjoy dockside activities, prawn bisque, or indulge in a $79 six-dish spot prawn brunch. Proceeds support culinary education, mentorship, and sustainability initiatives across the province.

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