In the realm of fine dining, it has long been an accepted belief that the weight of a wine glass equates to its quality. However, this age-old wisdom was profoundly challenged when the ethereal Zalto wine glass emerged on the scene in the early 2000s. Crafted from hand-blown glass of astonishing delicacy, this Austrian innovation features a broad bowl and straight sides that concentrate the wine’s aromas, offering oenophiles an unprecedented intimacy with their libations. “It brings the drinker as close as possible to the wine without getting in the way,” attests Mark Andrews, co-founder of Noble Rot.
While its rival, Riedel, advocated for a variety of glass designs tailored to different wines, Zalto opted for the singular, all-encompassing “Universal” glass. Today, this £50 masterpiece graces the tables of renowned establishments such as Per Se and French Laundry in the United States, Mugaritz in Spain, and 18 out of the 29 three-Michelin-starred restaurants in France. Notably, it has become the go-to choice of prop-masters for affluent epicureans, making cameo appearances in popular television series like Succession, Homeland, and The Menu.
During the course of the pandemic, when Zalto’s supply dwindled, it sent shockwaves through the industry. “People were indulging in fine wines at home, and inquiries surged by 100 percent,” reveals Christoph Hinterleitner, Zalto’s General Manager. The shortage compelled bars and restaurants to explore alternatives. As a result, several brands now offer strikingly similar options.
The “Wine Glass” by Richard Brendon, a collaborative effort with FT wine columnist Jancis Robinson, boasts a more sinuous and slightly shorter design than Zalto. Ideal for exceptionally special champagnes, it carries a price tag of £85 for a set of two. On the other hand, the “Spiegelau Definition Universal” is marginally weightier and perhaps slightly less delicate but comes at nearly half the cost, with a price of £50 for a set of two. To the untrained eye, it remains indistinguishable.
In the world of wine glassware, the Zalto Universal set a new standard, challenging conventional wisdom and prompting innovation within the industry. As wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs continue to seek the perfect vessel for their favorite varietals, the choices have never been more diverse or exciting.
