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Crafting Liquid Art: How Mezcal is Made

by Kaia

Mezcal, often referred to as the smoky sibling of tequila, is a traditional Mexican spirit with a rich history and a distinctive production process. Derived from the agave plant, mezcal boasts a diverse range of flavors and regional variations. In this comprehensive guide, we will journey through the art of making mezcal, exploring the traditional methods, unique ingredients, and the craftsmanship that sets it apart as a spirit deeply rooted in Mexican culture.

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The Agave Plant and Its Varieties

At the heart of mezcal production lies the agave plant, a spiky succulent that plays a central role in the spirit’s creation. Mezcal can be made from several different agave species, each contributing its unique characteristics. The two most common agave varieties used in mezcal production are:

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Espadín (Agave angustifolia): The Espadín agave is the most widely cultivated and used agave variety for making mezcal. It is known for its balanced and approachable flavor profile, making it a popular choice among mezcal producers.

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Tobalá (Agave potatorum): The Tobalá agave is smaller and less common than the Espadín, known for its distinct and complex flavors. Tobalá mezcal is highly sought after for its unique and intricate taste.

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Other agave varieties, such as Madrecuixe, Tepeztate, and Arroqueño, are also used to create mezcal, each offering a range of flavors and regional distinctions. The choice of agave variety greatly influences the final character of the mezcal.

The Traditional Art of Harvesting Agave

The production of mezcal begins with the harvesting of mature agave plants. The agave’s age and size are critical factors in determining when it is ready to be harvested. Unlike tequila, which primarily uses Blue Weber agave and is typically harvested between 6-8 years, mezcal agaves have a more varied maturation period, ranging from 7 to 30 years or more.

Harvesting the agave is a labor-intensive process that requires skilled jimadores, or agave harvesters. They use a sharp tool called a coa to carefully remove the spiky leaves, revealing the piña, the heart of the agave plant. The piña, which can weigh between 20 to 200 pounds depending on the agave variety, is the core ingredient for making mezcal.

Roasting the Agave: The Key to Mezcal’s Smokiness

One of the most distinctive characteristics of mezcal is its smoky and earthy flavor, a result of the traditional method of roasting the agave piñas. There are two primary methods of roasting agave used in mezcal production:

Underground Pit Roasting: This method involves digging a large pit in the ground, which is then lined with hot stones and wood. The piñas are placed in the pit, covered with agave fibers and leaves, and then sealed with earth. The piñas roast slowly over several days, absorbing the smoky flavors from the wood and stones.

Above-Ground Oven Roasting: Some mezcal producers use above-ground ovens, which are typically made of brick or stone. The piñas are placed in these ovens, and wood or charcoal is burned to roast them. While this method may produce less smokiness than pit roasting, it still imparts a unique character to the mezcal.

Fermentation and Distillation

After roasting, the agave piñas are crushed to extract their juices. Traditionally, this was done with a stone wheel known as a tahona, but modern producers may use mechanical crushers. The extracted juice, known as aguamiel or “honey water,” is then fermented. The fermentation process can take place in open wooden vats or stainless steel tanks and typically lasts between a few days to a few weeks.

Once the agave juice has fermented, it is distilled. Mezcal is typically distilled twice, but some producers may opt for additional distillations to achieve a specific flavor profile. The distillation process is carried out in copper pot stills, which are designed to capture and concentrate the flavors of the fermented agave juice.

The first distillation results in “ordinario,” a lower-proof liquid with a cloudy appearance. The second distillation refines the spirit further, resulting in “mezcal” that is clear and ready for bottling or further aging.

Aging and Bottling Mezcal

While many mezcals are enjoyed unaged, some varieties are aged to enhance their complexity and depth of flavor. There are several aging options for mezcal, including:

Joven (Young or Blanco): Unaged and bottled shortly after distillation to preserve the agave’s pure and raw flavors.

Reposado (Aged): Mezcal aged in wooden barrels or containers for a period ranging from a few months to one year. This imparts subtle wood notes and smoothness.

Añejo (Extra Aged): Mezcal aged for a minimum of one year, often in oak barrels. Añejo mezcals exhibit more pronounced wood character and complex flavors.

Extra Añejo (Ultra Aged): Reserved for mezcals aged for over three years, resulting in rich and complex spirits with a deep color and intricate flavor profiles.

The final step in mezcal production is bottling. Before being released to the market, mezcal is typically diluted to achieve the desired alcohol content, which usually falls between 40-50% ABV (alcohol by volume).

Appellation of Origin: Protecting Mezcal’s Heritage

In 1994, the Mexican government granted mezcal an Appellation of Origin (Denominación de Origen) to protect and preserve its authenticity and cultural significance. This legal designation ensures that mezcal can only be produced in specific regions of Mexico, primarily in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Michoacán, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, and Puebla.

To be certified as authentic mezcal, the spirit must adhere to strict production regulations, including the use of agave, traditional production methods, and compliance with quality standards.

The Best Mezcals: A Matter of Taste

Determining the best mezcal is a highly subjective endeavor, as the spirit offers an array of diverse flavors, aromas, and characteristics. When seeking the finest mezcal for your palate, consider the following factors:

Agave Variety: Explore different agave varieties to discover the flavors that resonate with your taste preferences.

Production Methods: Look for mezcal producers who adhere to traditional methods, as these often result in more authentic and complex flavors.

Smokiness: Mezcal’s smokiness can vary significantly. Some mezcals have a pronounced smoky character, while others may be milder. Choose according to your smokiness preference.

Terroir: The region where the agave is grown can influence the mezcal’s flavor. Oaxaca, in particular, is known for producing some of the most revered mezcals.

Aging: Consider whether you prefer unaged (Joven) or aged (Reposado, Añejo) mezcals. Each aging level offers a distinct tasting experience.

Awards and Reviews: Research brands and read reviews to gain insights into the quality and craftsmanship of different mezcals.

Mezcal in Cocktails and Tastings

Mezcal’s versatility makes it a valuable addition to cocktails and tasting experiences. Classic cocktails like the Mezcal Margarita, Mezcal Negroni, and Oaxaca Old Fashioned highlight the spirit’s smoky and complex nature.

Mezcal tastings, similar to wine or whiskey tastings, allow enthusiasts to explore the nuances of various mezcals and appreciate the craftsmanship behind each bottle. During tastings, participants evaluate the spirit’s appearance, aroma, taste, and finish, gaining a deeper understanding of the flavors that make each mezcal unique.

Conclusion

Mezcal, deeply rooted in Mexican culture and tradition, is a spirit with a diverse and storied history. Its distinct smokiness, derived from the traditional roasting of agave piñas, sets it apart as a unique and captivating spirit.

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