Despite being a flavor that divides opinion, licorice is making its mark in the world of beverages, appearing increasingly in drinks served at coffee shops, bars, and restaurants.
Take Dayglow Coffee in Los Angeles, for instance, where the French Dispatch, a concoction of espresso, roasted chicory, cream, pecan, and anise, pays homage to Parisian roots and the founder’s childhood memories. This limited edition drink, initially inspired by a film tribute, has become a fan favorite, along with other creations featuring the anise-flavored digestif, Underberg.
Bartenders, too, are embracing licorice-inspired libations. Mike Wait, from L&E Oyster Bar in Los Angeles, crafted the Reykjavik Mule during his time in Iceland, utilizing local salted licorice liqueurs to create a spicy, salty kick. At Cure cocktail bar in New Orleans, bartender Gina Hoover crafted the Nocturne, a twist on the classic Sazerac, highlighting anisette as the star ingredient.
Despite its divisive nature, licorice is finding favor with a broader audience, with bartenders opting for lower-proof options to appeal to licorice-averse drinkers. Hoover believes that the recent surge in interest in lesser-known spirits and flavors is a silver lining of the COVID era, as people sought to expand their palates during lockdowns.
As our tastes evolve, previously disliked flavors like licorice are gaining appreciation, demonstrating that what was once unappealing can now be seen as surprisingly pleasing.
