In the intricate world of Michelin-starred dining, crafting a wine list that harmonizes with the cuisine is an art form. Thomas Lorival, head sommelier and co-director of the acclaimed 3-star Michelin Clos des Sens restaurant in Annecy, shares his perspective on the key factors influencing wine selection. “You need a wine list that matches the type of food, and the wines need to be matured so that they are ready to drink,” Lorival emphasizes. He diverges from the conventional path of opting for renowned labels, asserting, “Fixed mark-ups are the worst. For local wines, even if I don’t pay that much for them, I have to sell them at a price that is consistent with that of the menus.”
The pricing dynamics, however, do not deter discerning buyers. Dyonisos Mavromatis, a restaurateur and Greek wine importer based in Paris, sheds light on the popularity of wines, noting, “the most popular wines are the most expensive ones from Santorini, but to be fair, they are six times cheaper than their Burgundy counterparts.” Mavromatis underscores the importance of serving wines with precision, having invested in a chiller to instantly cool white wines, even for take-away orders. Chef Jérôme Schilling at the Lalique restaurant at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey in Sauternes emphasizes the significance of serving wines at the right temperature, stating, “The glasses mustn’t be filled too much to start with and must be topped up afterwards.”
One of the primary drivers behind moderating wine consumption in restaurants, particularly spirits, is the fear of legal repercussions, preceding concerns about cost and health implications. This trend has led to the emergence of wine-by-the-glass programs, often paired with food offerings and featuring a fixed price per glass with a corresponding course. Océane Guillot, sommelier and owner of the one-star Arbore & Sens in Loches, Loire Valley, expresses surprise at the success of this approach, with one-third of patrons now opting for this choice. This sentiment is echoed by sommelier Christophe Hay in Blois, also in the Loire Valley. At his two-star restaurant, chef Hugo Vasseur serves six 6-cl glasses with the 6-course menu (€80 or €140 for the €180 menu). Additionally, the ‘soft pairing’ trend gains traction, featuring alcohol-free drinks and infusions (€45) curated by sommelier Fabien Vuillon at David Toutain’s two-star restaurant in Paris’s 7th arrondissement.
