Wine producers around the world are confronting the challenges and opportunities presented by mountainous terrain, constantly evolving their approaches to maximize the potential of these unique landscapes.
Maxence Dulou, the winemaker and estate director for Ao Yun, LVMH’s esteemed fine wine venture in China, emphasizes the dynamic nature of winemaking in mountainous regions. He explains that each vintage of Ao Yun wine is shaped by continuous learning and adaptation in the cellar.
In a bid to enhance the quality of their Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the mountain villages of Xidang, Sinong, Shuori, and Adong, Dulou’s team has extended the harvest period from mid-September to late November. This meticulous approach underscores their commitment to continuous improvement, albeit with the acknowledgment that mastery of their craft will require sustained effort over decades.
Yunnan, China’s Yunnan region, characterized by wet summers and warm, dry autumns, prompts Ao Yun to implement adaptive water management strategies in their vineyards. The height of grapevines is adjusted throughout the growing season to mitigate disease risks, with particular attention paid to reducing canopy height in the weeks leading up to harvest.
Meanwhile, for Argentinian producer Achaval Ferrer, achieving optimal grape ripeness in mountainous terrain necessitates careful yield management. According to winemaker Gustavo Rearte, controlling yields is pivotal to ensuring excellence at harvest time.
In Europe, Swiss producer Domaine Jean-René Germanier is pioneering new approaches to vineyard management on steep slopes. Moving away from traditional hand harvesting methods, the estate is embracing small caterpillar tractors and drones to lower production costs while maintaining quality standards.
Despite the skill of viticulturists, the ultimate arbiter of success remains the grapes themselves. Lebanon’s Ixsir winery is venturing into mountain ranges exceeding 1,800m to gauge the adaptability of grapes to higher altitudes. Winemaker Gabriel Rivero is exploring the cultivation of new grape varieties, including Viognier, Muscat, and Cabernet Franc, at elevated heights, with a keen eye on future adaptations.
As wine producers navigate the complexities of mountain viticulture, their relentless pursuit of innovation promises to unlock new frontiers in winemaking.
