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The Hottest New Wine Bar Is 30,000 Feet in the Air

by Kaia

The airplane minibar has long been underwhelming, but some airlines are now elevating their in-flight beverage programs by bringing sommeliers on board.

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In 2022, British Airways appointed Tim Jackson, a Master of Wine, to oversee their beverage offerings. He has since opened a Whispering Angel rosé bar in Heathrow and introduced exclusive bottles of British sparkling wine and Champagne on flights, including Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2015 and Lanson Noble’s 2005 vintage. These will soon be replaced by equally rare bottles like Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne 2004.

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Qatar Airways treats first-class passengers to vintage Krug and caviar, while Emirates offers a “vintage collection” of wines including first-growth Bordeaux, aged for 15 years in their French cellar. Emirates has invested over $1 billion in its beverage program, ensuring premium wines are served with proper decanters and glasses. However, these offerings are exclusive to their pricier cabins.

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Some airlines are also embracing current wine trends. Air Canada, for example, now serves Heinrich Naturtalent, a natural blend of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, curated by their in-house sommelier, Veronique Rivest. Rivest selects wines that are approachable for a broad audience, avoiding micro-trends like pétillant-naturels and orange wines. She reviews hundreds of wines annually to refine the airline’s list, rotating selections every three months.

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Doug Frost, who works with United Airlines, and British Airways’ Tim Jackson both rigorously test wines under flight conditions. They consider how factors like air pressure, humidity, and cabin noise impact taste perception. The dry cabin air and reduced pressure dull the palate, affecting aroma and flavor perception. Wines with prominent red fruit flavors, higher residual sugar, and balanced tannins are preferred to compensate for these changes.

High-altitude conditions require careful wine selection. Super aromatic wines like Riesling and Gewürztraminer taste muted, while heavily oaked wines like California Chardonnays become more balanced. Wines with high alcohol content are avoided as they dehydrate passengers more quickly.

Airlines invest in high-quality wines to enhance the overall flying experience, especially in premium cabins. “Wines are very important to us,” says Jackson. “In our business and first-class cabins, the wine list is a crucial element of the enjoyment of the flight experience.”

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